By Tariq Alam Jah

Date:28-05-06

Source: Dawn

When I landed at the Indra Gandhi International Airport, Delhi, on April 1, 2006 around 12 noon after almost 19 long years, it felt that officials at the airport were generally cordial and helpful in obvious contrast to the atmosphere of hostility that prevailed in the past. A junior official at the airport even helped me out by paying for my local telephone call as I had until then not changed my dollars a thing which I had least expected to happen. While such small gestures of kindness by individuals may help in improving relations in the long run, better relations between the two countries these days is essentially the result of fast developing rapport between President Pervez Musharraf and Prime Minister Manmohan Singh. The bold initiative on the part of President Musharraf and the sense of urgency with which Pakistan had given up the cautious approach, which it had followed earlier, is being welcomed in India.

Although the Indians are generally fascinated by the general`s charm and flexibility in his approach, some people are sceptical if the general has really changed. They think it is some kind of tactical manoeuvre or may be it is meant just to divert the attention of Pakistanis from domestic issues. More important is the fact that people on both sides of the divide think that if the two countries could gain from each other`s strengths it will be good for their respective economy and that both sides must think differently to solve the existing problems.

The Indra Gandhi International Airport India`s busiest entrance point for airlines — unlike Karachi and Lahore airports, is dour and outmoded requiring a total makeover. It took me a little more than an hour and a half to get through processes. As the staff slowly cleared the passengers at the immigration counter, the lines moved slowly and queue jumping was rampant. Still, the staff never asked people to line up and take their turn.

People visiting India often get impressed by India`s phenomenal dynamism on the economic front. With seven to eight per cent consecutive growth during the last three years; inflow of foreign institutional investment (FII) to the tune of $21billion; big push in the power sector, the telecom sector, shipping and civil aviation; the check on inflation and unprecedented boom at stock markets are some of the positive indicators of India`s preparedness to meet the future. The middle class in India has never had it so good. Their growth and progress has given them a respectable place in their society.

With money pouring in, lifestyle trends have drastically changed and items needed for home improvement are now in continuous demand. Home stores, offering complete home solutions under one roof, are now located at many places in India including Delhi and Mumbai. The market is estimated to be worth more than 60,000 crore rupees.

The figure of crore in India, however, is now losing its aura. A survey report published recently in The Times of India suggests that in the next 4-5 years the present figure of 50,000 households, earning an annual income of more than a crore, is likely to easily touch 140,000 numbers. The survey report also indicates that one in 500 households in Delhi and 800 in Mumbai earns over a crore annually.

Despite all these pluses, the bad aspect of the economy is the circulation of black money, which according to media reports, accounts for 20 per cent of the GDP. Others claim that it is much more than this estimate. Economists say that if India has to grow it will have to make its economy more accountable. Failure to tap black money will mar development programmes.

India`s economic growth is something that all under-developed countries can learn from

The Nermada Bachao Andalon (NBA) leader Medha Patkar was in the limelight at the time I was in India. She was getting a lot of attention in the print media because of her indefinite fast for rehabilitating about 35,000 families which would get affected by the Sardar Sarovar Project. Those who oppose the project say villages near the project along the Nermada River will get submerged due to the increase in height of the dam from 110 metres to 121 metres.

Delhi is green like Lahore. The diplomatic enclave in Chanakayapuri and the residential areas surrounding the enclave look very beautiful. In downtown New Delhi, the massive buildings and wide streets are hardly elegant and stylish. Beggars and hawkers at traffic lights; encroachments on sidewalks; the blocking of roads with barriers; people piddling on road sides; undisciplined traffic; the terrifying movement of auto rickshaws; and the squalor and garbage dumps make it look like Karachi. The only difference between New Delhi and Karachi is the absence of wall chalking and graffiti on thoroughfares and the ugly display of flags of political parties and other groups fluttering on top of electrical poles in many areas of Karachi.

The metro train service is something all Delhiwalas are proud of. Immaculately neat and clean and stylish are the words that can best describe the stations and trains. Although it at present covers only a limited distance, its reach is being extended gradually.

The Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin is located close to Humayun`s Tomb. Entrance to the Dargah is from the Mathura Road. People visiting the Dargah find their way through untidy narrow stone lanes and an unending stream of pestering beggars and street vendors. Short of Dargah a lane on the left leads to an air-conditioned Karim`s restaurant well known for excellent and reasonably priced Mughlai foods. A visit to Karim`s restaurant is a must for people visiting this city. The Karims have now opened a few more outlets at other places in the city.

Inside the Dargah, the keepers of Dargah keep asking for donations. The Mazar of Hazrat Ameer Khusroo is visited first. Jahan Ara, daughter of Shah Jahan, and emperor Mohammad Shah are said to be buried in between the tombs of Hazrat Ameer Khusroo and Hazrat Nizamuddin. Beautification work at the Dargah was under taken by Emperor Shah Jehan and is impressive. The Mazzar Sharif of Hazrat Qutubudding Bukhtiar Kaki, Peer of Hazrat Baba Fareed Gunjshakar, is located in Mahroli near the Qutub Minar in old Delhi. It is a quiet place. These Mazzars are visited daily by Muslims and Non-Muslims alike.

The Quwwatul Islam Mosque located inside the premises of the Qutub Minar was built by Qutubuddin Aibak. Work on the mosque started in 1193AD and was completed in 1197AD. Subsequently the mosque was enlarged by Shamsuddin Iltutmish in 1211AD. This mosque is in a state of neglect.

Buses, taxies and auto-rickshaws in Delhi have converted to CNG which has minimised pollution to a considerable extent — a thing which residence of Delhi specially point out to foreigners. The most unusual thing about Delhi is that the residents of this over crowded city are polite.

I took an express train from Delhi to Patna (capital of Bihar), where I had spent most of my holidays. The train was scheduled to leave New Delhi at 8pm but did not get into the station till 9:30. It was surprising to see that no one was upset. No questions were asked as to why the train was late nor was there any announcement from the railway authority in that respect. I found out that it was the norm here in India.

The journey was very comfortable. White sheet, pillows, blanket and towel were provided to me in the first class AC compartment. Cleanliness in coaches has improved and the stations are now neater. The credit for transforming Indian Railways from a sick institution into a financially vibrant and efficient organisation goes to one of the most maverick Indian politicians, Indian Union Railway Minister Lalu Prasad Yadav. Despite being accused of pushing the state of Bihar into chaos, anarchy and bankruptcy during his party`s continuous rule for 15 long years, Lalu Prasad is somehow always able to attract newspaper headlines. He has recently been awarded non-active membership of the prestigious Supreme Court Bar Association which has come as a surprise to many in India.

During my stay in Bihar there were two major religious festivals Jashn-e-Eid-e-Millad-un-Nabi and Ramnawami (birth celebration of Lord Rama). Both festivals were celebrated with communal harmony, religious fervour and gaiety and the processions taken out on these occasions were very organised and disciplined.

I also happened to visit Ara a small town located 40 miles short of Patna. It has a population of about a million people. The town has historical reference dating back to the war of independence that took place in 1857. Dr Rajender Parshad the first Indian president had spent a good part of his early life in Ara. It is also the home town of Jugjiwan Ram who dominated the Indian political scene in the 50s and 60s. This town has produced many well known ICS officers, a scientist of international repute and literary luminaries.

Ara was quite neat and clean until 1962 when it was managed by the Chowdhries of Ara (who were well known in the pre-partition days in Bihar for their education, money and political clout). However, it has now turned into a litter strewn town with massive amount of garbage dumps everywhere. It is dirty and smelly and no effort is being made to improve the town.

In Bihar mustered oil has always been used for cooking and frying, considered by many in India as some thing odd and funny. There appears to be a big change and now companies in India are marketing branded mustered oil for cooking. Their advertisement carry a clipping from a study carried out by the Harvard School of Public Health (USA) that says mustered oil is one of the best cooking mediums and that its use, especially while frying, lowers the risk of heart attack.

India has a long and fascinating history and there are many places to visit and plenty of things to see. Democracy, even though it is not efficient, is keeping the country together. India`s progress in the field of IT and medical science is praiseworthy.