Harking back: Will Wazir Khan mosque ‘hujras’ enlighten us?

Many years ago when visiting a Berkeley University library dedicated to South Asian publications, I was shown a few rare books. Among them in a glass case was a beautiful leather-bound edition of Ferdowsi’s ‘Shahnama’.

That book, which was purchased for almost a million US dollars in 2009, was a ‘Lahore Edition’, which is a rare book printed on handmade paper made inside Lahore’s walled city, its page edges beautifully hand-painted by women living inside the old city, exquisite lines done to utter perfection by amazing calligraphists and artists working in the ‘hujras’ outside the main mosque, the pages then bound by stationers in a ‘hujra’ and the leather bound in yet another ‘hujra’. Sounds so romantic, but then this is how things moved in those days, each specialty operating independently.

Outside the mosque in the open space in Mughal days the ‘karvans’ would settle around a camp fire, and books and other products that Lahore was famous for were sold, or auctioned as the case may be. So our amazing leather-bound books would then travel across Central Asia, and on to Turkey and beyond. Over the years as western countries became economically rich and acquired greater literacy levels, these books found greater appreciation. Hence today they can be found in the British Museum, as well as most European and American museums and libraries.

One need not dwell on how we as a people have fared on the literary front, but what one can, and should, certainly talk about is the attempt by the Walled City of Lahore Authority to resurrect 15 ‘hujras’ in the outer courtyard of the mosque of Wazir Khan inside Delhi Gate. On Wednesday last, the 6th of April, 2022, they placed an advertisement in local newspapers inviting local artisans/ calligraphers in local arts and crafts to work in these famous ‘hujras’. The advertisement also invited entrepreneurs and organisations interested in working in any one of the 15 ‘hujras’ available. The 16th ‘hujra’ is occupied by the local ‘patwari’.

This by any account is an excellent move and the authority should be commended and appreciated for this effort. It is something this newspaper column has been advocating for a long time. But then the WCLA advertisement makes it difficult for local small artisans from participating. For starters a genuine effort should be made to exclude the traders of Shahalami and other such markets from setting up shops and godown to sell cloth or utensils or other such items. The effort should be undertaken to have artisans themselves working in the ‘hujras’ and owning the business and its profits too. This should surely be the spirit of the effort.

The effort to invite entrepreneurs and traders to these ‘hujras’ (shops) will kill the very spirit of the undertaking. This will invite the criticism that just where does the WCLA find the appropriate skilled artisans, calligraphers, book binders, leather binders for just one product like the ‘Lahore Edition’ marvel. But then these ‘hujras’ can, and should, house excellent craftsmen producing hats and caps, block printed fabrics on the premises as also hand-crafted shawls, hand-woven fabrics like genuine ‘khaddar’, hand-knotted carpets, hand-made ‘khussas’ and ‘chappals’. The wish list is endless.

It would be amazing if at least two miniature painters get a ‘hujra’ each. Our history needs such an effort. A good miniature painting can sell for at least Rs50,000 plus each. So one painting a week will be excellent earning, provided the quality is superb. The same goes for a quality ‘khussa’ maker. The possibilities are endless.

The list can go on and on, but the underlying consideration should be that every product should be locally produced, and of the highest quality and all made in the ‘hujra’. These suggested ‘guidelines’ are sure to bring forth the official response that they cannot guarantee such an outcome. The answer to this is that the small artisan, craftsperson, painter, calligraphist, book binder, and other such artistically-inclined person will not even read the advertisement. Maybe a few will pick it up hearsay, but it is sure to miss the vast majority of those who deserve just such a break.

So what should be done? The answer is for the various desk-ridden officials of the WCLA to walk through the entire walled city observing shops and workshops and production rooms, talking to the artisans and inviting them to participate. The entry should be free of cost. Surely the WCLA is expected to help the poor out. Our poor talented craftpersons need a break to truly contribute to the expected tourist ‘pull’ that these ‘hujras’ are bound to create.

It is a fact that most talented people work from their homes, now mostly in faraway places, as their poor families have sold their houses to traders. They need to be traced. Again when the WCLA ‘tracers’ walk the streets they are sure to ask shopkeepers about the best artisans and craftspersons of their area. To this they should also ask about those who have fled the ‘tyranny’ of the expanding traders.

Added to these considerations and suggested steps, it would not be a bad idea that the 15 ‘hujras’ should be divided into different crafts. Competition is healthy so two ‘hujras’ per trade is not a bad idea, but both not to the same person. This excellent WCLA idea needs to be handled with great care with a high quality outcome in mind.

As my mind thinks of new possibilities, it would not be a bad idea to allow one ‘hujra’ to a quality bookseller dedicated to selling books about Lahore and its history. The trick lies in planning a variety of crafted products that represent the true spirit of old Lahore. This will provide visitors and tourists the reason why Lahore is so special in the hearts and minds of its inhabitants, both present and past.

This brings us to a proposition that the WCLA should approach institutions functioning within the walled city who could use one ‘hujra’ to sell their quality products. For example, the Bazaar Hakeeman has two such institutions, both world famous. Inside each gateway are such people and institutions who should be approached.

This is an idea that needs to be appreciated, and taken forward in the spirit of bringing forward the best individuals and institutions of the walled city. As a precaution steps should be taken to not let them be used as godowns. They belong to the people and to our history, and the arts and crafts of our city need much greater exposure.