HARKING BACK: From the Mughal ‘Shah Nahr’ to Lahore canal

Most of us moving from the eastern to the western part of present-day Lahore, pass over and along the Lahore Canal. Yet seldom do people think about the history of this old waterway. For that matter few know its correct name. All we know is that it cuts the city in two.

The Lahore Canal, built by the British in 1861 to open up barren lands between Lahore and Ferozepur, is really a duplicate of the once over 100-mile long Shah Jehan-era canal built by Ali Mardan Khan to feed water to the Shalimar Gardens. It was originally called the Shah Nahr (the Royal Canal) and from its origin at Madhopur (now in India) on the River Ravi dropped into two huge water hydraulic tanks, which had a unique natural water filtration mechanism, was completed in 1644. From this point clear filtered water, fully oxygenated, dropped into the multi-layered garden fountains with three terraces having 410 fountains in an amazing natural mechanism. The only other similar water tanks I have seen exist outside Spain’s Alhambra Palace on Cordoba.

Sadly, these exceptionally rare water tanks were destroyed in the recent Sharif era who were more interested in building a road to India. In 1861 the British, with the experience of the 1837-39 famine in the sub-continent in mind, or so documents claim, had after annexing Punjab in 1849, decided to build in Punjab a series of canals to open up fertile lands to ensure that future famines were avoided. It was in that context that the British had calculated that future massive relief expenditures could be avoided if the rural economy was developed.

However, one document claims that the Lahore Canal was really agreed to after the events of 1857 so that future uprisings could be contained. Seems far-fetched such a claim, but the timings make one think otherwise. Probably such a suggestion could have fed into the ‘famine plan’ of the British.

So it was that from near Bambanwali Village near Daska from the Upper Chenab Canal, it passes through Daska, as well as Lahore, ending in the Sutlej River near Kanghanpur almost 100 miles from its origin. Hence forth it was called the Bambanwali-Ravi-Bedian (BRB) Canal. The portion passing through Lahore is named the Lahore section of the BRB, or more simply the Lahore Canal.

In the 1960s Ayub Khan-era this canal was slightly widened and a road built on one side opposite the built-up areas. Gulberg had yet to come about. So from the Punjab University New Campus onwards it were all ‘katcha’ road. But in Lahori culture this was called ‘Lovers Road’. The reason was that richer people, mostly students, with cars drove with partners towards Multan Road, making anyone in a car along the track ‘suspect’. The Irrigation Rest House at Thokar Niaz Beg was known as a place where tea was served by the attendant for a hefty tip. Beyond this point the canal curves and moves towards Raiwind along the Multan Road. It was all rural area in those days. Today that peace and tranquillity has been eroded by industrial undertakings and housing colonies.

But then today the Lahore Canal is the city’s most beautiful ‘linear’ park with trees that give the city its breathing oxygen. The air quality along it is certainly better than that in the old walled city, especially near main roads and industrial areas. Of recent in an effort to widen roads on both sides of the canal, a lot of beautiful trees have been lost. Just like the lost Mughal-era water tanks, both the Sharif brothers had little time for trees. Officially they promised replanting twice the number lost in “development work”, but such promises ended up being ‘empty’ one, even though the highest courts ruled otherwise.

The major problems that the Lahore Canal faces today is that it constantly gathers silt, cuts its edges and faces polluters who dump all sorts of chemicals into it, what to speak of plastic waste often seen floating in the muddied waters. This calls for an annual desilting operation. In our school-days school children of Lahore were all made to spend one whole day desilting the Lahore canal as part of what was known as ‘Manual Labour Day’. In a way it was a pastime that was great fun away from classes in one huge picnic. The silt was used as compost by farmers.

Then came the side-cutting problem. That was overcome by brick-lining the sides. As water-logging became a problem in areas on both side of the canal, its sides and at places the bottom was also lined. In a way this helped in the desilting work that students undertook. It also saved water being lost. Then the ‘Manual Labour Day’ was abolished and ‘contractors’ started making money out of it.

But by far the most serious problem of the canal water is the toxic nature that once clean water has become. All along on both sides industrial units water disposal drains have started depositing toxic water in the canal. The laboratory of the environment department in Lahore has declared time and again that the water had “unacceptably excessive high levels of sulphides, total dissolved solids, and a very high level of suspended solids, chlorine and sulphates”. All this has led to what the laboratory calls a “very disturbed pH level” which endangers human life. That sounds serious.

Over time the Lahore Canal has acquired sort of cultural importance. Such an importance is of very recent origin as the city expanded and was without much, if any, relaxation and entertainment outlets. So in summer people, especially the young, head to the cool water for a dip. The rich and powerful objected ‘in writing’ that half-naked boys look vulgar. Friends and families consume watermelons and mangoes in an outing, which now police try to stop in the name of safety.

It is exactly what happened to the spring ‘Basant’ festival, where because absolutely no public transport is now available - a unique Pakistani shortcoming of governance - people have taken to motorcycles to overcome the acute mobility problem created. Hence stray kites have threatened riders without helmets. A police official claimed that it had become a traffic problem. But this is the place where most people learn how to swim. At least in my case this was the case.

But then also on special occasions like Independence Day which comes in August, almost the entire city converges on the canal to have a dip. That people throw their plastic food wrappings in the water is something to educate people about.

But then there are positive signs that as the canal leaves the populated areas, a number of parks and also a sort of zoo has come up at Jallo. This calls for the authorities to quickly earmark large areas as ‘green areas’ where housing colonies should not be allowed. All along the canal and in these ‘green areas’ there is a need to plant as many trees as is possible. Lahore needs to breathe better.