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The grain of daily
life
There is much
delight in the portraits of the most ordinary of characters
picking up
the rhythm of life as it must have been lived in the bazaars of
Patiala
WHATEVER
little attention has gone to the art of the Punjab Plains in the
19th century", I once wrote, it has "tended
to focus on what was happening at the Lahore Court". There
were reasons for this. The glitter, the excitement, the
‘savage splendour’ of that court, as recorded by so many
foreign visitors to the territories of Maharaja Ranjit Singh,
was too much to resist; some documentation on the arts had come
down in the records of that court; a number of paintings, some
of high quality, had survived.
However,
in the process what was happening in the field of painting in
other parts of Punjab, particularly in the cis-Sutlej states —
as the British designated them — was receiving remarkably
little notice. To some extent even this was understandable, for
the materials for that study were not over-abundant and the
general perception was that the ‘Phulkian’ rulers,
especially those of Patiala, were interested in little else than
leading, personally, lives of luxury and indolence.
Fortunately, much
of this has changed with passing years. Some documents have come
to light and been published, and a number of remarkable
paintings have come to light. To take the example of Patiala
alone, one knows now how artists from three different directions
— Alwar and Delhi and the Pahari region — converged upon the
state and were employed there; in fact, even the names of some
artists — Deviditta and Ude Ram Jaipuria and Muhammad Sharif
among them — have come down. One can also still see the
remnants of some fine murals on the walls of the Qila Mubarak,
the Qila Androon, and the Sheesh Mahal. And there is, of course,
that magnificent procession scene of Maharaja Narinder Singh on
elephant back that is the glory of Patiala painting: the
resplendent mounts with the Maharaja and Kunwar Sahib upon them
making their way while a whole host of courtiers and soldiers
and footmen walk by their side and ahead of them another
elephant carrying the sacred book, the Guru Granth Sahib,
moves on its stately course.
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A utensil maker’s
shop in the bazaar. Patiala, mid-19th century

Details from the painting above (a utensil maker’s
shop in the bazaar). Patiala, mid-19th century
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In the midst of
all this, what draws me especially is what intervenes between
the ceremonial work of this nature and some late, formal
likenesses of the Maharajas and the nobility of Patiala: those
informal, sometimes remarkably intimate, portraits of the most
ordinary of characters — ‘men of no consequence’, in royal
terms — which one also finds in Patiala.
I recall, having
chanced upon them years ago, in a dusty pile of papers of
varying sizes that formed part of a private collection in that
city. In that pile were these brush drawings in black upon
paper: many water-stained or bearing marks of mildew, others
stuck together or frayed at the edges.
Still later, I
happened to see another group of these studies, once again in a
state of utter neglect, in the collection of the Sheesh Mahal
Art Gallery at Patiala. There is nothing pretentious about these
studies but here, in them, one sees a whole gallery of the kind
of men whom one would have met in the bazaars of the city in the
19th century: shopkeepers and astrologers, syces and peasants,
peons and torch-lighters. There is something moving in the
honesty of these studies: a young man, barely out of his teens,
and completely unaware of the world, dressed in coarse, rustic
apparel; a peasant, wearing a roughly tied turban: open face,
uneven eyes, full lips, a touchingly honest set of the mouth; a
pandit, tilak mark on the forehead, eyes a little tired,
shades of anxiety flitting across the face, withdrawn gaze. And
so on.
These are, one
needs to emphasise, not photographic likenesses of the kind that
had started coming in at that time: these are painters’ notes
to themselves, as it were. And seeing them, in all their
artlessness, one can sense a whiff of fresh air brushing past
the cheek, feel honest grit between the toes and smell the
fragrance of the earth.
From the bazaar
again come other works, many of them falling into what is
generally called ‘Company work’: images of traders and
craftsmen and those plying different professions. One series
from which a painting was published some years ago — that of a
well-fed halwai or sweetmeat seller sitting inside his
shop surrounded by platter upon platter of silver leaf-covered
delicacies and whisking flies away — had accompanying verses
written in Gurmukhi characters on each same page.
Of a higher order
in terms of quality, although devoted to similar themes, is the
painting that accompanies this piece: that of a kasera
— utensil maker/seller — selling his wares seated inside his
remarkably well-stocked shop. There is much else going on in the
painting at the same time and the work, subtle and delicately
finished as it is, deserves being looked at with care. For there
is finely observed detail in it and many a hint.
In his
open-fronted shop which, to keep the sun out, has a boldly
striped awning at the top, the old kasera is occupied
with weighing a round metal-pot with a fluted design in a
balance which he holds aloft with one hand, elbow resting on
raised knee. The pan, with the pot, is being balanced with
weights, which lie in a flat basket by his side, metal pieces
and other objects. The richly dressed buyer is seated
comfortably inside the shop, legs crossed, eyes sharply trained
on the balance, while a tall but more simply attired retainer or
attendant sits directly behind him. At the back, there is row
upon row of brass wares but also among them some that look
tarnished, possibly because of the silver content in them. There
is concentration on every face: the buyer, the retainer, the old
shopkeeper and, even more naturally, the young man, who sits
behind him, for he holds an account sheet in hand, ready
evidently to make the necessary calculation for the sale.
While this is
going on inside the shop, there is much action, and interest,
outside. A middle-aged couple approaches the shop, the sparsely
dressed bearded man holding an old pot in one hand, possibly to
offer it for sale to the kasera, while his wife holds
other objects in hand, those that she has probably just used in
some ritual. Brought in with uncommon care, and bringing the
painting still closer to life, is a madari or ‘monkey
man’ — face painted black, long straggly hair, patchwork
quilt draped round his shoulders — seated on the ground,
begging pan on the floor in front of him and his performing
companions, a monkey and a langur, frisking about. There is so
much delight in this vignette, the performance, the expressions,
the ordinary goings-on picking up the rhythm of life as it must
have been lived in the bazaars of Patiala.
While one is going
about taking these details in, one must not overlook the two
framed paintings that hang from little hooks on the back wall of
the shop. For all their minuscule scale, one can almost
recognize the themes they treat of: episodes, in typical Pahari
manner, from the Gita Govinda that celebrates the
love of Radha and Krishna. What is the painter sneaking in here,
one wonders? A hint of the shopkeeper’s refinement of taste?
Or a reminder of who the present painting is by?
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