Diary of a Pedestrian

 in Cashmere and Thibet.

Captain Knight

To those for whose perusal the following pages were originally written

they are affectionately dedicated.

Preface.

With the fullest sense of the responsibility incurred by the addition

of another volume to the countless numbers already existing, and daily

appearing in the world, the following Diary has been committed to the

press, trusting that, as it was not written WITH INTENT to publication,

the unpremeditated nature of the offence may be its extenuation, and

that as a faithful picture of travel in regions where excursion trains

are still unknown, and Travellers' Guides unpublished, the book may

not be found altogether devoid of interest or amusement. Its object

is simply to bring before the reader's imagination those scenes and

incidents of travel which have already been a source of enjoyment to

the writer, and to impart, perhaps, by their description, some portion

of the gratification which has been derived from their reality. With

this view, the original Diary has undergone as little alteration of

form or matter as possible, and is laid before the reader as it was

sketched and written during the leisure moments of a wandering life,

hoping that faithfulness of detail may atone in it for faults and

failings in a literary and artistic point of view.

Although the journey it describes was written without the advantages

of a previous acquaintance with the writings of those who had already

gone over the same ground, subsequent research has added much to the

interest of the narrative, and information thus obtained has been

added either in the form of Notes or Appendix. Under the latter head,

acknowledgment is principally due to an able and interesting essay

on the architecture of Cashmere, by Capt. Cunningham, and also to a

paper by M. Klaproth, both of whom appear to have treated more fully

than any other writers the subjects to which they refer.

As differences will be found to occur in the names of places,

&c. between the parts thus added and the remainder of the book,

it may be well to explain that in the former only are they spelt

according to the usually received method of rendering words of Eastern

origin in the Roman character. By this system the letters A, E, I,

O, and U, are given the sounds of the corresponding Italian vowels;

I and U are pronounced as in "hit" and "put;" and the letter A is

made to represent the short U in the word "cut." In this way it is

that Cashmere, correctly pronounced Cushmere, comes to be written

Kashmir, and Mutun, pronounced as the English word "mutton,"[1] is

written Matan, both of which, to the initiated, represent the true

sound of the words. Those who have adopted the system, however, have

not always employed it throughout, nor given with it the key by which

it alone becomes intelligible; and the result has been that in many

ways, but principally from the un-English use made of the letter A,

it has tended quite as much to mislead and confuse, as to direct.

In the narrative, therefore, wherever custom has not already

established a particular form of spelling, the explanation of the

sound has been attempted in the manner which seemed least liable to

misconception, and, except as regards the letters A and U no particular

system has been followed. These have been invariably given the sounds

they possess in the words "path" and "cut" respectively, a circumflex

being placed over the latter to denote the short U in the word "put."

Such names, therefore, as Cushmere, Tibbut, Muhummud, Hijra, &c. have

been left as custom has ruled them, and will appear in their more

well-known costume of Cashmere, Thibet, Mahomet, and Hegira.

The concluding sketch was originally intended to accompany a series

of brightly-coloured Cashmerian designs illustrative of the life of

"Krishna;" and the reproduction of these, in their integrity, not

having been found feasible, the sketch itself may appear DE TROP.

It has, however, been retained on the possibility of the translations

which occur in it being of interest to those who may not be acquainted

with the style of Eastern religious literature; while the outline it

presents of some of the religions of the East, bare and simple as

it is, may be acceptable to such as are not inclined to search out

and study for themselves the necessarily voluminous and complicated

details.

London.

Introduction.

More than a year and a half had been spent in the hottest parts of the

plains of India, and another dreaded hot season was rapidly making its

approach, when, together with a brother officer, I applied for and

obtained six months' leave of absence for the purpose of travelling

in Cashmere and the Himalayas, otherwise called by Anglo-Indians

"The Hills."

We had been long enough in the country to have discovered that the

gorgeous East of our imagination, as shadowed forth in the delectable

pages of the "Arabian Nights," had little or no connexion with the

East of our experience -- the dry and dusty East called India, as it

appeared, wasted and dilapidated, in its first convalescence from the

fever into which it had been thrown by the Mutiny of 1857 -- 58. We

were not long, therefore, in making our arrangements for escaping from

Allahabad, with the prospect before us of exchanging the discomforts

of another hot season in the plains, for the pleasures of a sojourn in

the far-famed valley of Cashmere, and a tramp through the mountains of

the Himalayas -- the mountains, whose very name breathes of comfort and

consolation to the parched up dweller in the plains. The mountains of

"the abode of snow!"

Our expeditionary force consisted at starting of but one besides the

brother officer above alluded to -- the F. of the following pages

-- and myself. This was my Hindoo bearer, Mr. Rajoo, whose duty

it was to make all the necessary arrangements for our transport

and general welfare, and upon whose shoulders devolved the entire

management of our affairs. He acted to the expedition in the capacity

of quartermaster-general, adjutant-general, commissary-general,

and paymaster to the forces; and, as he will figure largely in the

following pages, under the title of the "Q.M.G.," and comes, moreover,

under the head of "a naturally dark subject," a few words devoted to

his especial description and illumination may not be out of place.

With the highest admiration for England, and a respect for the

Englishman, which extended to the very lining of their pockets,

Mr. Rajoo possessed, together with many of the faults of his race,

a certain humour, and an amount of energy most unusual among the

family of the mild Hindoo. He had, moreover, travelled much with

various masters, in what are, in his own country, deemed "far lands;"

and having been wounded before Delhi, he had become among the rest of

his people an authority, and to the Englishman in India an invaluable

medium for their coercion and general management.

To us he proved a most efficient incumbent of the several offices

we selected him to fill. His administration no doubt did display an

occasional weakness; and his conduct as paymaster to the forces was

decidedly open to animadversion; for, in this capacity, he seemed to

be under the impression that payments, like charity, began at home,

and he also laboured under a constitutional and hereditary infirmity,

which prevented him in small matters from discerning any difference

between MEUM and TUUM.

Having been employed collectively, however, it would be unfair to judge

of his performances in detail; and from his satisfactory management

of the expedition, occasionally under such trying circumstances as a

break-down in the land transport, or an utter failure in his tobacco

supply, we had every reason to be satisfied with our choice. The

latter misfortune was the only one which really interfered at any time

with his efficiency, or upset his equanimity, and it unfortunately

occurred always at the most inopportune seasons, and at a time when

he was undergoing his greatest hardships.

As long as the supply lasted, the mysterious gurglings of his "Hubble

Bubble," or cocoa-nut water-pipe, might be heard at almost any hour of

the day or night. "Hubble bubble, toil and trouble," was the natural

order of his existence; and when in some peculiarly uncivilised region

of our wanderings, the compound of dirt, sugar, and tobacco, in which

his soul delighted, was not forthcoming, he and his pipe seemed at

once to lose their vitality, and to become useless together. The

temporary separation which ensued, being in its way a MENSA ET THORO,

was a source of trouble and inconvenience to all concerned, and we had,

more than once, cause to regret not having given the tobacco question

that forethought and consideration to which it would be well entitled

by any one undertaking a similar expedition.

Overlooking these weaknesses, Mr. Rajoo's character was beyond

reproach, and for the particular work he had to perform, his

combination of efficiency, portability, and rascality, rendered him

in every respect "the right man in the right place."

Such was our "head of affairs," and such the small force he had at

first to provide for. As we passed out of India, and got further from

regions of comparative civilisation, his cares increased: cellar,

kitchen, larder, farm-yard, tents, &c. had then to accompany our

wandering steps, and the expedition gradually increased in size,

until it attained its maximum of nearly forty. From this it again as

gradually decreased, and as one by one our retainers disappeared, it

dwindled in dimensions until it finally reached its original limited

proportions, and then "we three met again," once more upon the plains

of India.

All our necessary preparations having been completed, and a sacrifice

of three precious weeks having been duly offered to the inexorable

genius who presides over public correspondence, we reduced our

impedimenta to the smallest possible compass, and with about a

hundred pounds to commence life with, all in two shilling pieces,

that being the only available coin of the realm in this our second

century of British administration, we took our departure by railway for

Cawnpore. Here we found ourselves located and hospitably entertained in

the house in which our unfortunate fellow-countrywomen were confined

on their recapture from the river by the Nana Sahib, one of the few

mementos of the mutiny still left standing at Cawnpore.

Next day we laid our dak for Simla, and about six o'clock in

the evening, with the Q.M.G. on the roof, and ourselves and our

possessions stowed away in the innumerable holes and corners of

the rude wooden construction called a "Dak garee," or post coach,

we took our departure. After a few mishaps with our steed, involving

the necessity of getting out to shove behind, we entered upon the

Grand Trunk Road, and with a refreshing sense of freedom and relief,

soon left Cawnpore in all its native dust and dreariness behind us.

The Pleasures of the Plains.

MAY 21, 1860. -- Being fairly under weigh, our first attention was

directed towards the machine which was to be, in a great measure, our

home for many days to come. Not overburdened with springs, and not much

to look at, though decidedly an extraordinary one to go, our conveyance

was by no means uncomfortable; and, stretched upon a mattress extending

its entire length, F. and I chatted over our plans and projects, and

star-gazed, and soon fell asleep, in spite of the ruts on the road

and the wild discordant bugling of our ragged coachman, who seemed

to consider that, however inferior in other respects, in a matter

of music we were not to be outdone, not even by Her Majesty's own

royal mail. At first sight, the necessity of trying to clear such

lonely roads as we were travelling was not altogether apparent;

but a slight acquaintance with the general principles and laws of

progression of the national Indian institution called a bullock-cart,

or "beil-garee," soon clears up the difficulty. Built entirely of wood,

and held together by scraps of ropes and cord, a more hopeless-looking

machine cannot exist; and drivers and bullocks alike share in the

general woodenness and impassibility of the structure. The animals,

too, having probably lost all the better feelings of their nature

in such a service, are appealed to entirely through the medium of

their tails, and the operation occasionally results in the whole

creaking mass being safely deposited in some capacious rut, there to

remain until "the Fates" -- assuming, perhaps, the appearance of three

additional bullocks -- arrive to draw it out again. Occasionally, too,

the institution comes to a halt for the night, comfortably drawn up

in the centre of the line of traffic, with a delightful disregard

for aught but the present, and an air of supreme contempt for the

most eloquent music of all the ragged coachmen on the Grand Trunk Road.

Every five miles we stopped to change our horse, and miserable

indeed was the raw-boned little animal that made his appearance on

every occasion. Still the pace was kept up in spite of appearances,

and at seven A.M. we reached "Ghoorsahagunge" -- more generally known

as GOOSEYGUNGE -- sixty miles from Cawnpore, and 197 from Delhi.

Here we slept in peace until eleven o'clock, and awoke from dreams

of Cashmere to the unpleasant realities of a violent dust-storm. The

usual "Khus-khus tatties," or screens of fragrant grass, which are

kept in a continual state of moisture at door and window, and convert

the dust-charged scorching blast into a comparative coolness, were

not forthcoming, and our halt was not a pleasant one by any means:

still our faces were towards the mountains, and the pleasures of hope

enabled us to take our misfortunes with entire philosophy. We started

again about five P.M., when the power of the sun was somewhat abated,

and encountered the usual difficulties with refractory horses at every

change. A start was in no case effected without much management and

exertion. A half-naked black generally attaches himself to each wheel;

the driver, from a post of vantage, belabours the miserable horse with

all his might and main; the Q.M.G. takes a firm hold of the rails on

the roof; and all shouting, grunting, and using bad language together,

away we go at full gallop, if we are in unusual luck, for about 300

yards. Then comes a dead stop: the same operation commences again,

and so on, until the animal is sufficiently far from his last stable

to be able to look forward with some confidence to the one ahead,

and resigns himself to circumstances accordingly. One peculiarity in

this peculiar country we found to be, that in putting our steed-to,

the English custom is reversed. The cart is "put-to," not the horse;

and the latter being left standing anywhere on the road, the lumbering

"garee" is dragged up to his tail, and fastened up with a combination

of straps and ropes, marvellous to behold.

MAY 23. -- To-day we arrived at "Etawah," where we found a very

comfortable little staging bungalow, but no supplies of either beer

or butter procurable. On the road in the early morning there were

herds of deer and antelope in sight, but time being precious we left

them unmolested.

As yet very little change makes its appearance in the character of

the country. Level plains, with patches of trees, mango and palm,

as far as the eye can reach, and everywhere dust, dust, dust! The

palm-trees, however, with toddy parties scattered about among them,

serve to make the scene look cheerful, and, for an eastern one,

comparatively lively. In the evening we again took the road, with a hot

wind blowing strongly and steadily, and before long we were overtaken

by a dust-storm, which completely enveloped us in its murky folds,

and interfered with our happiness a good deal. Got through the night

much as usual, with the addition of a midnight vocal entertainment,

which some hundreds of wolves and jackals treated us to, while the

"authorities" were looking to our welfare, by taking off and greasing

our wheels. Of travellers we meet but few, generally bullock-train

parties, with soldiers, &c., return daks, and an occasional old

Mussulman, or other native, taking advantage of the early morning

for his journey, and wrapped and swaddled up as if afraid of being

congealed by the coolness of the morning air.

Every day's journey leaves one more and more at a loss to discover the

sources of the wealth of this enormous country. The soil, for miles

and miles a dead flat, is now barren as a desert, and we meet hardly

a sign of active traffic. During the night we certainly did encounter

a long train of heavily-laden bullock-waggons; but the merchandize

was gunpowder, and its destination was up, instead of down the road.

MAY 24. -- Arrived at "Kurga," where we found neither bread nor butter

forthcoming -- nothing but -- "plenty fowl, Sahib!" In the evening

we again encountered a heavy dust-storm, the worst of the season;

the whole night it continued to blow in our teeth; and between

the fierce dryness of the wind and the searching particles of dust,

which visited us without ceremony, we spent anything but an agreeable

night. At three A.M. we reached the "Hingus Nuddee," or river; and

changing our solitary horse for two fat bullocks, we crossed its

sandy bed, and over a bridge of boats -- not so genteelly, perhaps,

but much more securely, than we could have otherwise done. There were

the remains here of a handsome suspension bridge; but the chains had

been cut by the rebel Sepoys, and nothing but the pillars now remained.

MAY 25. -- At four A.M. we crossed the bridge of boats over the Jumna,

and found ourselves under the gloomy battlements of the Fort of Delhi.

Entering by the Calcutta Gate, we drove through large suburbs, lighted

up with rows of oil lamps, reminding one, in the dim light, a good

deal of Cairo. Arriving at the dak bungalow, we found it such a dirty

looking deserted building, and the interior so much of a piece with

the exterior, that we mounted again, and set off to try the Hotel, or

"Pahunch Ghur," -- a name originally intended to convey the meaning

"An arriving house," but neatly and appropriately corrupted into the

term "Punch Gur," which speaks for itself, and troubles no one much

about its derivation. We were rather disappointed with the general

appearance of the city: dirt and grandeur were closely combined,

and the combination gave the usual impression of shabby genteelness

in general, not at first sight prepossessing. After driving through

what might have been an Eastern Sebastopol, from the amount of ruin

about, we reached a cut-throat-looking archway; and the coachman, here

pointing to a dirty board, above his head, triumphantly announced the

"Punch Gur!" Hot and thirsty, we got out, with visions of rest and

cooling sherbets, too soon to be dispelled. Passing through long dirty

halls, and up unsavoury steps, we at last reached a sort of court,

with beds of sickly flowers, never known to bloom, and from thence

issued to a suite of musty hot Moorish-looking rooms, with gold-inlaid

dust-covered tables, and a heavily-draped four-post bedstead, the

very sight of which, in such a climate, was almost enough to deprive

one of sleep for ever. Our speech forsook us, and without waiting to

remark whether the lady of the house was an ogress, or possessed of a

"rose-coloured body" and face like the full moon, we fairly turned

tail, and drove in all haste to our despised dak bungalow, where,

meekly and with softened feelings towards that edifice, we were

glad to deposit ourselves on a couple of charpoys, or "four-legs,"

as the bedstead of India is called, and endeavour to sleep the best

way we could. "Delhi," we found, quite kept up its reputation of being

the hottest place in India. All idea of sight-seeing was out of the

question, and the whole of our energies we were obliged to expend in

endeavouring to keep moderately cool.

After enjoying the two first of blessings in a hot climate -- viz. a

plentiful supply of cold water and a change of raiment, we felt

ourselves able to undergo the exertion of meeting the traditional

grilled fowl at breakfast, and of inspecting the curiosities from the

bazaars. At the first wish on the latter subject, we were invaded by

a crowd of bundle-carrying, yellow-turbaned, rascally merchants, who,

in half a minute, had the whole of their goods on the floor -- rings,

brooches, ivory ornaments, and inutilities of all sorts and kinds,

all of them exorbitantly dear, and none of any real value.

We left Delhi again at about six P.M., after loitering about the

city for a short time, among the teeming bazaars, some parts of

which were picturesque and "Eastern" enough. Outside the city walls,

the country was ruined and dilapidated in the extreme; demolished

houses and wasted gardens telling their tale of the loss of Delhi,

and our struggle for its recapture.

MAY 26. -- During the night, we got over seventy-three miles, and

reached "Kurnaul" at seven A.M. The bungalow we found unusually

comfortable, being a remnant of the old regime, and one of the few

which escaped from the hands of the rebels during the mutiny.

The country here begins to improve in appearance -- more trees and

cultivation on all sides; and the natives appear finer specimens

than their more southern relations. The irrigation, too, seems to be

carried on with more systematic appliances than further south -- the

water being raised by the Persian wheel, and bullock-power introduced

in aid of manual labour.

MAY 27. -- Arrived at Umballa at three A.M., and found the staging

bungalow full. The only available accommodation being a spare

charpoy in the verandah, F. took a lease of it, while I revelled in

the unaccustomed roominess of the entire carriage, and slept till

six, when we got into our lodgings. Although so near the foot of

the Himalayas, the weather was so oppressive here that exploring

was out of the question; and at six P.M., changing our carriage for

palankeens, or dolies, we commenced a tedious and dusty journey to

the village of "Kalka," the veritable "foot of the hills," where we

were met by a string of deputies from the different "DRY-LODGINGS" in

the neighbourhood, soliciting custom. The first house we came to was

guarded by an unmistakeable English hotel-keeper, of some eighteen

stone; and so terrible was the appearance she presented, with her

arms akimbo, rejoicing in her mountain air, that in our down-country

and dilapidated condition, we felt quite unequal to the exertion of

stepping into HER little parlour; and passing her establishment --

something in the small bathingplace-style of architecture -- we went

on to the next, very much of the same order, and called the "Brahminee

Bull." Here, to my dismay however, standing in the selfsame position,

weighing the same number of stone, and equally confident in the

purity of her air as her neighbour, stood another female "Briton,"

with the come-into-my-parlour expression of countenance, regarding us

as prey. Under the circumstances, exhausted nature gave in; though

saved from Scylla, our destiny was Charybdis, and we accordingly

surrendered ourselves to a wash, breakfast, and the Brahminee

Bull. During the day, we had a visit from a friend and ex-brother

officer, whom we had promised to stay with, at "Kussowlie," on our

road up. Kalka was not HOT, but GRILLING, so that a speedy ascent to

the station was soon agreed upon. Not caring to risk a sun-stroke,

I resigned myself to the traditional conveyance of the country, a

"jhampan," while the other two rode up; but here, for the second

time, it was "out of the fryingpan into the fire." Such an infernal

machine as my new conveyance turned out never could have existed in

the palmiest days of the Inquisition. It was a sort of child's cradle,

long enough for a creature of some five or six summers, made like a

tray, and hung after the fashion of a miniature four-post bedstead,

with goat's-hair curtains. The structure is suspended, something in the

fashion of a sedan-chair which has been stunted in its growth, between

two poles; between the projections of these again, before and behind,

connected by a stout strap, are two shorter bars, each supported, when

in travelling order, on the shoulders of two bearers. When the machine

is in motion, therefore, there are four men in line between the shafts.

The pace is always rather fast, and down a declivity the torturers

go at a run; the result is, that prominent parts of one's body are

continually in collision with the seat or sides of the machine,

coming down from various altitudes, according to the nature of the

ground and the humour of the inquisitors. After getting over about

six miles in this graceful and pleasing manner, we reached the first

of the fir-trees, and as we rose still higher a delicious breeze came

over the hills, as precious to the parched and travel-stained pilgrim

from the plains as a drop of water to the thirstiest wanderer in the

desert. Kussowlie appeared a picturesque little station, perched at

the summit of one of the first of the hilly ranges, and here I found

my two companions, burnt and red in the face as if they, too, had had

their sufferings on the road, occupied in looking over the goods of a

strolling Cashmere merchant; luckily for themselves, however, it was

under the protecting superintendence of our hostess. Our friends were

living on a miniature estate commanding a magnificent view of the

mountain ranges on one side, and, on the, other, the plains of the

Punjab, the scorching country from which we had just made our escape

lying stretched out before us like an enormous map in relief. Towards

the mountains were the military stations of "Dugshai" and "Subathoo,"

and the boys' asylum of "Senore," the latter rather marring the face

of nature by the workhouse order of its architecture. "Simla" we could

just distinguish, nestled among the blue mountains in the far distance.

Here we spent a couple of days very pleasantly with our hospitable

entertainers, and satisfactorily pulled up all arrears of sleep --

a luxury none can really appreciate who have not travelled for six

days and nights in the different local conveniences I have mentioned.

Before leaving we had an opportunity of seeing how England in the

Himalayas makes its morning calls. Walking, which amounts almost to an

impossibility in "the plains," seems to be voted INFRA DIG. in "the

hills," and Mrs. Kussowlie according made her appearance seated in

state in a jhampan, and borne on the shoulders of four of her slaves.

These were active, wiry-looking natives, dressed in long green coats,

bound with broad, red, tight-fitting pantaloons, and with small turbans

of red and green on their heads. Altogether, a more startling-looking

apparition to the uninitiated than this Himalayan morning visitor

could hardly be imagined, even in a tour through the remotest regions

of the earth.

MAY 29. -- About six o'clock in the evening we remounted our

instruments of torture and took the road to Simla. For about seven

miles the path was down hill, and the bearers being fresh, they

huddled us along at a pace calculated to outrage our feelings most

considerably, and, at the same time, with no more consideration

for our welfare than if we were so many sacks of coal. In spite of

the sufferings of the principal performers, the procession was most

amusing; and as we jolted, bumped, and bundled along, it was impossible

to keep from laughing, although crying, perhaps, would, under the

circumstances, have been more appropriate. My machine led the way,

four of the inquisition being in the shafts, and four in waiting,

running along at the side with pipes, bundles, sticks, &c. Then came

F. similarly attended, and finally the Q.M.G., hubble bubble in hand,

and attired in a gold embroidered cap, surrounded by a lilac turban:

seated in a sort of tray, and reclining at his case in full enjoyment

of his high position, he looked the priest of the procession, and

managed to retain his dignity in spite of the rapid and unceremonious

way in which he was being whirled along. As the moon went down we had

the additional effect of torchlight to the scene, three bearers having

the special duty of running along to show the pathway to the rest. This

seemed a service of some danger, and our torch-bearers at times verged

upon places where a stumble would have apparently extinguished both

themselves and their torches for ever. About half way we stopped for

about an hour for the bearers to partake of a light entertainment of

"ghee and chupatties" -- otherwise, rancid butter and cakes of flour

and water. This was their only rest and only meal, from the time they

left Kussowlie at six P.M. until they reached Simla at eight A.M. The

same set of bearers took us the entire distance, about thirty-five

miles; and the four men who were not actually in the shafts used to

rest themselves by running, ahead and up precipitous short cuts, so as

to insure a few minutes' pull at the pipe of consolation before their

turn arrived again. To us, supposed to be the OTIUM CUM DIG. part of

the procession, the road seemed perfectly endless. No sooner were we

up one ascent than we were down again on the other side; and when we

thought Simla must be in sight round the next turn, it seemed suddenly

to become more hid than ever. In one of these ups and downs of life

my machine, during a heavy lurch, fairly gave way to its feelings,

and with a loud crash the pole broke, and down we both came, much to

my temporary satisfaction and relief. A supply of ropes and lashings,

however, formed part of the inquisitors' stores, and we were soon

under weigh again to fulfil the remainder of our destiny.

The entrance to Simla led us through a fine forest of oaks, firs,

cedars, and other large trees; and winding along through these we

could, every now and then, discern, towering over the backs of endless

ranges of blue and hazy mountains, ridge upon ridge of glittering snow,

which cast its icy breath upon us even where we were, helping us to

forget the horrors of the night, and giving us a renewal of our lease

of existence. Simla itself soon opened on our view, a scattered and

picturesque settlement of houses of the most varied patterns perched

about over the mountain top, just as an eligible spot presented

itself for building purposes. It is situated 8,000 feet above the

level of the sea and 7,000 over the average level of "the plains,"

Umballa, which is near the foot of the range, being 1,000 above the

sea-level. From our halting-place we could discern the scene of

our night's journey, with Kussowlie looking like a mere speck in

the distance, and we felt a proud sort of consciousness of having

accomplished a desperate undertaking in very good style. Passive

endurance was, under the circumstances quite as worthy of praise

as the more active virtues displayed by those who were the cause of

our sufferings. After the first good breakfast I had eaten for three

months, we pulled up arrears of sleep till four P.M. and found, on

awaking, that our much expected letters had arrived from the post,

and among them the necessary permission from the Punjab Government

to travel in Cashmere, and instructions for our guidance while in

the territory. From among the routes laid down in the latter we chose

No. 1.[2] The direct line across the mountains from Simla would have

entailed additional delay and permission, and as time was precious

we decided upon descending again to the plains and making our way

through Lahore, not, however, without a severe pang at leaving so

soon the terrestrial paradise of which we had got a glimpse. After

arranging our movements with the "authorities," we sallied out to see

fashionable Simla airing itself, which, as far as dress is concerned,

it appeared to do very much in the fashionable watering-place style at

home. The jhampans, palkies, dandies,[3] &c. which took up the entire

road, however, loudly proclaimed India, Simla being much too dainty

to touch the ground with its pretty feet, and too lazy to use its own

legs for purposes of out-door locomotion. The station seems a curious

combination of many styles and places; the scenery and houses, Swiss;

the people Anglo Indians, Affghans, Cashmeeries, &c.; the conveyances,

Inquisito-Spanish; and the bazaars, in their native dirt, pure Indian.

MAY 31. -- After making our leave secure, we made up our minds for a

plunge into the plains again and a forced march to Lahore, being rather

expedited in the determination by hearing that several travellers had

been recalled from leave in consequence of there being a scarcity of

officers with their regiments.

With a fine moonlight night in our favour we again took the road; and

practice slightly assuaging our sufferings, we got on smoothly enough

till within a few hours from Hureepore Bungalow, when my machine again

broke with a crash, and the nature of the fracture being compound,

I walked on and left the executioners to repair the instrument at

their leisure.

JUNE 1. -- Reached Hureepore at four A.M., and found the place in

possession of a crowd of monkeys of all sorts and sizes, taking an

early breakfast. Here, chicken and eggs being again written in our

destiny, we halted for an hour or two, and at eleven again took the

road with our cast-iron bearers, and hurried along in the noonday sun,

up hill and down dale, through Kussowlie, and on and on till we were

once more fairly deposited at the feet of "Mrs. Charybdis." A slight

dinner here, and at 8.30 P.M. we were again in train, shuffling along

through several feet of dust, which the bearers, and torch-carriers,

and the rest of our numerous train, kicked up about us, in clouds

nearly dense enough to cause suffocation.

JUNE 2. -- At 8.30 A.M. we arrived again at Umballa, and with

nothing to comfort us in our dusty and worried condition but the

reflection that our start from Simla was a magnificent triumph of

stern determination over present enjoyment and unwonted luxury, we

again resumed our forced march. At six P.M. we took our departure,

in a very magnificent coach, but in an "unpropitious moment," for the

horse was unusually averse to an advance of any sort, and when we did

get clear of the station his opinions were borne out by a terrific

storm of dust, with a thunder, lightning, and rain accompaniment,

which effectually put a stop to all further progress. The horse

for once had his wish, and was brought to a regular stand. The

wind howled about us, and the dusty atmosphere assumed a dull red

appearance, such as I had only once before seen at Cawnpore, and the

like of which might possibly have prevailed during the last days of

Pompeii. After getting through the worst of the storm, we pushed along,

and had reached the twentieth mile-stone, when, catching a flavour of

burning wood, I looked out and found the wheel at an angle of some 30

degrees, and rubbing against the side preparatory to taking its leave

altogether. Here was another effect of starting in an unpropitious

moment. The interruption in the great forced march preyed heavily upon

our minds, but, on the principle of doing as "Rome does," we took

a lesson from the religion of "Islam," and concurring in the views

expressed by our attendant blacks, viz. that "whatever is written in

a man's destiny that will be accomplished," we ejaculated "Kismut"

with the rest, and resignedly adapted ourselves to the writings in

our own particular page of fate. Having sent back to Umballa the news

of our distress, a new conveyance in a few hours made its appearance;

and hauling it alongside the wreck, we unshipped the stores, reloaded,

and eventually reached "Thikanmajura" at eight A.M.

JUNE 3. -- Starting at about three o'clock P.M., we found the

unpropitious moment still hanging over us: first a violent dust-storm,

and then a refractory horse, which bolted completely off the road,

and nearly upset us down a steep bank, proved to demonstration that

our star was still obscured.

About midnight we reached the river "Sutlej," and exchanged our horse

for four fat and humpy bullocks, who managed, with very great labour

and difficulty, to drag us through the heavy sands of the river-bed

down to the edge of the water. Here we were shipped on board a

flat-bottomed boat, with a high peaked bow; and, after an immensity

of hauling and grunting, we were fairly launched into the stream, and

poled across to the opposite shore. The water appeared quite shallow,

and the coolies were most of the time in the water; but its width,

including the sands forming its bed, could not have been less than two

miles and a half. It was altogether a wild and dreary-looking scene,

as we paddled along -- the wild ducks and jackals, &c. keeping up a

concert on their own account, and the patient old bullocks ruminating

quietly on their prospects at our feet.

On arriving at what appeared to be the opposite bank, we were taken

out, and again pulled and hauled through the deep sand, only to be

reshipped again on what seemed a respectable river in its own right;

and here, getting out of patience with a stream that had no opposite

bank, I fell asleep, and left the bullocks to their sorrows and

their destiny.

JUNE 4. -- Arrived at Jullundur, where we had to share the bungalow

with another traveller and a rising family, who kept us alive by

howling vigorously all day. The road from this being "Kucha," literally

UNCOOKED, but here meant to express "unmetalled," we had yet another

form of conveyance to make acquaintance with. It was a palkee, rudely

strapped upon the body of a worn-out "Dak garee;" and although a more

unpromising-looking locomotive perhaps never was placed upon wheels,

the actual reality proved even worse than the appearance foreboded.

Anybody who has happened to have been run away with in a dust-cart

through Fenchurch Street, or some other London pavement, the gas pipes

being up at the time, might form some idea of our sensations as we

pounded along, at full gallop, over some thirty miles of uneven,

UNCOOKED road; but to anybody who has not had this advantage,

description would be impossible. About half way, it appeared that

it was written in my miserable destiny that the off fore-wheel of my

shay was to come off, and off it came accordingly; so that once more

I became an involuntary disciple of Islam, and went to sleep among

the ruins, with rather a feeling of gratitude for the respite than

otherwise. On awaking, I found myself again under way; and effecting

a junction with my companion, we had a light supper off half a

water-melon; and, after crossing the River Beas by a bridge of boats,

and being lugged through another waste of sand by bullocks, we once

again reached a "cooked" road, and arrived at "Umritsur" at six A.M.

JUNE 5. -- Found the heat so great here that we were unable to

stir out.

As a consolation, we received a visit from four "Sikh Padres," who

rushed in and squatted themselves down without ceremony, previously

placing a small ball of candied sugar on the table as a votive and

suggestive offering. The spokesman, a lively little rascal, with a

black beard tied up under his red turban, immediately opened fire, by

hurling at us all the names of all the officers he had ever met or read

of. The volley was in this style: First, the number of the regiment,

then Brown Sahib, Jones Sahib, Robinson Sahib, Smith Sahib, Tomkins

Sahib, Green Sahib, and so on, regiment after regiment and name after

name, his brother Padres occasionally chiming in in corroboration

of their friend's veracity and in admiration of his vast stock of

military information. After much trouble, we got rid of the pack,

at the price of one rupee, which was cheap for the amount of relief

afforded by their departure.

JUNE 6. -- Reached Lahore at ten P.M. and had a night in bed, for

the third time only since leaving Cawnpore. The Q.M.G. being at once

set to work to make the necessary arrangements for our final start

for Cashmere, we paid a hurried visit to the Tomb of Runjeet Singh

and the Fort and City of Lahore. These were worth seeing, but they

abounded in sights and perfumes, which rendered the operation rather

a trying one, considering the very high temperature of the weather.

JUNE 7. -- Drove out in a dilapidated buggy, and with an incorrigible

horse, to Mean Meer, the cantonments of Lahore. The place looked

burnt up and glaring like its fellows, and a fierce hot wind swept

over it, which made us glad enough to turn our backs on it and hurry

home again as fast as our obstinate animal would take us. The Q.M.G.,

we found, had collected our staff of servants together, and was

otherwise pushing on our preparations as fast as the dignity and

importance of the undertaking would admit.

The staff consisted of khidmutgar, bawurchie, bhistie, dhobie, and

mihtar; or, in plain English, butler, cook, water-carrier, washerman,

and sweeper.

Of these, the washing department only brought with it its insignia and

badge of office. This was an enormous smoothing-iron, highly ornamented

with brass, decorated with Gothic apertures, and made to contain an

amount of charcoal that would have kept an entire family warm in the

coldest depths of winter. Being of great weight, we rather objected

to such an addition to our stores -- the more so as our linen was

not likely to require much GETTING-UP. The DHOBIE, however, declared

himself unable to get on without it, and it accordingly had to be

engaged with its master.

JUNE 8. -- To-day Rajoo is still hard at work laying in stores from

the bazaars and arranging means of transport for them; the weather hot

beyond measure; and as neither our food nor quarters are very good,

we begin to forget our lessons of resignation, more especially as

the mosquitoes begin to form a very aggravating item in our destiny.

JUNE 9. -- About four P.M. the Q.M.G. came in triumphantly with about

sixteen tall baskets covered with leather, which he called "khiltas;"

and having ranged them about the room like the oil-jars of "Ali Baba,"

he proceeded to cram them with potatoes, tea, clothes, brandy, and the

whole stock of our earthly goods, in a marvellous and miscellaneous

manner, very trying to contemplate, and suggestive of their entire

separation from us and our heirs for ever.

Coolies not being procurable in sufficient numbers to carry away

all our stores together, F. and I agreed to start in the morning,

leaving the head of affairs with the rearguard to follow at his

leisure. Got away at last in two "palkees," with four "banghy

wallahs," or baggage-bearers, carrying our immediate possessions,

guns, &c. Spent the night wretchedly enough, the roads being of the

worst, and covered nearly a foot deep everywhere with fine dust,

which our bearers very soon stirred up into an impenetrable cloud,

enveloping us in its folds to the verge of suffocation.

The sensation is strange enough, travelling in this way along a lonely

road at dead of night, closely shut up in an oblong box, and surrounded

by some twenty or more dusky savages, who could quietly tap one on

the head at any time, and appropriate the bag of rupees -- inseparable

from Indian travelling -- without the slightest difficulty. That they

do not do so is probably from the knowledge they possess that with

the bag of rupees there is generally to be found a revolver, and that

an English traveller is of so generous a disposition that he seldom

parts from his money without giving a little lead in with the silver.

JUNE 10. -- After a dusty jolt of forty miles, we reached "Gugerwalla"

at eight A.M., and felt the change from Lahore most refreshing. The

village seemed a quiet little settlement, very little visited by

Englishmen, and the inhabitants, probably on that account, appeared

of a different stamp from those we had hitherto met. The women, in

particular, were more gaily dressed, and not so frightened at a white

face as more south. The rearguard not having come up at six P.M. we

started off without it. Crossed the Chenab during the night. The

fords, by torchlight, were most picturesque, and rather exciting,

in consequence of the water at times taking it into its head to see

what was inside the "palkee." The Chenab makes the fourth out of the

"five waters" from which the "Punjab" takes its name. The Jhelum only

remains -- the ancient Hydaspes of Alexandrian notoriety.

JUNE 11. -- Reached "Goojerat" at five A.M. and enjoyed a few hours

of quiet sleep in a very comfortable bungalow. The "khiltas" not

making their appearance, we halt here for the night. In the evening

we explored the city -- a straggling rabbit-barrow settlement,

inclosed by a mud wall, and boasting the narrowest streets I had

ever seen. In an open space we came upon a marvellously-ornamented

"mundir," or Hindoo temple, painted in the most florid style, with

effigies of dark gentlemen in coloured pants riding on peacocks,

antelopes, and other beasts of burden common in the country. It seemed

the centre of attraction to a numerous concourse of strangers from the

north; among others, a bevy of young ladies with loose trousers and

fair complexions, evidently "Cashmeeries," who seemed to regard the

"heathen temple" as one of the wonders of the world. In the middle

of the night the rearguard came in with the supplies, and we at

once turned it into an advanced-guard, and packed it off to make

preparations for our arrival at "Bimber."

JUNE 12. -- Spent a very hot day at Goojerat, and amused ourselves by

inspecting the gold-inlaid work for which the place is famous. At 5.30

P.M. we started for our last night's journey in British territory;

and thus terminated, for the present, our experiences of all the hot

and dusty "pleasure of the Plains."

Cashmere.

JUNE 13. -- About two A.M. we passed out of India into the territory

of His Highness the Maharajah of Cashmere, and halted at Bimber. The

accommodation here turned out to be most indifferent, although

in our route the edifice for travellers was called a "Baraduree,"

which sounded grandly. It means a summer-house with twelve doors;

but beyond the facilities it afforded of rapid egress, we found it

to possess but few advantages.

Putting a couple of charpoys outside, we managed a few hours' sleep

AL FRESCO, in spite of the flies and mosquitoes innumerable, who lost

no time in taking possession of their new property. On being able

to discern the face of the country, we found ourselves at the foot

of a range of hills of no great height, but still veritable hills;

and although the sun was nearly as hot as in the plains, we felt

that we were emancipated from India, and that all our real travelling

troubles were over. In the evening we inspected the Maharajah's troops,

consisting of eight curiously-dressed and mysteriously-accoutred sepoys

under a serjeant. These same troops had rather astonished us in the

morning by filing up in stage style in front of our two charpoys just

as we awoke, and delivering a "Present arms" with great unction as we

sat up in a half-sleepy and dishevelled condition, rubbing our eyes,

and not exactly in the style of costume in which such a salute is

usually received. We now found the "army" in the domestic employment

of cooking their victuals, so that we were unable to have much of a

review. However, we looked at their arms and accoutrements; ammunition

they had none; and saw them perform the "manual and platoon." Their

arms had been matchlocks, but had been converted, these stirring

times, into flintlocks! In addition to these, which were about

as long as a respectable spear, they had each a sword and shield,

together with a belt and powder-horn, all clumsy in the extreme. In

loading, we found an improvement on the English fashion, for, after

putting the imaginary charge in with the hand, they BLEW playfully

down the muzzle to obviate the difficulty of the powder sticking to

the sides. After presenting the troops with "bukhshish," we strolled

through the village and met the "thanadar," or head man, coming out

to meet us, arrayed in glorious apparel and very tight inexpressibles,

and mounted on a caparisoned steed. Dismounting, he advanced towards us

salaaming, and holding out a piece of money in the palm of his hand;

and not exactly knowing the etiquette of the proceeding, we touched

it and left it where we found it, which appeared to be a relief to

his mind, for he immediately put it in his pocket again.

His chief conversation was on the subject of the Maharajah and the

delights of Cashmere, and anxiety as to our having got all supplies,

&c. which we required, as he had been appointed expressly for the

purpose of looking after the comfort of the English visitors. What

with our friend and his train, and the detachment of "THE ARMY" which

had accompanied us, our retinue began to assume the appearance of

a procession; and it was with great difficulty that we induced them

all to leave us, which they did at last after we had expressed our

full satisfaction at the courtesy displayed by the Maharajah's very

intelligent selection of a "thanadar."

JUNE 14. -- Broke up our camp about three A.M. and started our

possessions at four o'clock, after some difficulty in prevailing upon

the coolies to walk off with their loads. On mustering our forces, we

found that they numbered thirty-seven, including ourselves. Of these

twenty-four were coolies, carrying our possessions -- beer, brandy,

potatoes, &c.; our servants were six more; then there were four ponies,

entailing a native each to look after them; and, last of all, one of

the redoubtable "army" as a guard, who paraded in the light marching

order of a sword, shield, bag of melons, and an umbrella. F. and I

travelled on "yaboos," or native ponies -- unlikely to look at, but

wonderful to go. Mine was more like a hatchet than anything else,

and yet the places he went over and the rate he travelled up smooth

faces of rock was marvellous to behold.

About eight o'clock we found ourselves once more among the pine-trees;

and, although the sun was very powerful, we had enough of the freshness

of the mountain air to take away the remembrance of the dusty plains

from our minds. No rain having fallen as yet, the springs and rivers

were all nearly dry; but we saw several rocky beds, which gave good

promise of fly-fishing, should they receive a further supply of water.

About nine A.M. we reached our halting-place, "Serai Saidabad," a

ruined old place, with a mud tenement overlooking, at some elevation,

the banks of a river.

Here we were again received with a salute, by a detachment of

warriors drawn up in full dress -- viz. red and yellow turbans,

and blue trousers with a red stripe.

After undergoing a refreshing bath of a skin of water, taken in our

drawing-room, we got our artist to work at breakfast, and shortly

after found, with considerable satisfaction, that we were in for the

first of the rains. This welcome fact first proclaimed itself by the

reverberation of distant thunder from among the mountains to the north;

then an ominous black cloud gradually spread itself over us, and,

with a storm of dust, down came the rain in torrents, making the air,

in a few minutes, cool and delicious as possible, and entirely altering

the sultry temperature which had previously prevailed. The thirsty

ground soaked up the moisture as if it had never tasted rain, and the

trees came out as if retouched by Nature's brush; while as, for F. and

myself, we turned the unwonted coolness to the best account we could,

by setting ourselves to work to pull up all arrears of sleep forthwith.

JUNE 15. -- Started at four A.M., with our numerous train, and found

the road all the pleasanter for the rain of the previous evening,

and all things looking green and fresh after the storm. Our path led

us up a rocky valley, with its accompanying dashing stream, in the

bed of which we could see traces of what the brawler had been in his

wilder days, in huge and polished boulders and water-worn rocks, which

had been hurled about in all directions. We afterwards went straight

up a precipitous mountain, wooded with pine, which was no light work

for the coolies, heavily laden as they were. No sooner, however,

were we on the top of this than down we went on the other side; and

how the ponies managed their ups-and-downs of life was best known

to themselves; certainly, nothing but a cat or a Cashmere pony could

have got over the ground. About nine A.M. we reached "Nowshera," under

another salute, where we found an indifferent-looking "Baraduree,"

completely suffocated among the trees of a garden called the "Bauli

Bagh," or "Reservoir Garden," from a deep stone well in the centre of

it. Here we got on indifferently well, the weather being close after

the rain, and the place thickly inhabited by crowds of sparrows,

all with large families, who made an incessant uproar all day long;

besides an army of occupation of small game, which interfered sadly

with our sleeping arrangements at night. In the evening we made the

acquaintance of a loquacious and free-and-easy gardener, entirely

innocent of clothes, who came and seated himself between F. and myself,

as we were perched upon a rock enjoying the prospect. According to his

account, the Maharajah's tenants pay about seven rupees, or fourteen

shillings, per annum for some five acres of land. In the middle of

the night we came in for another storm of thunder and lightning,

which took a good many liberties with our house, but cooled the air;

and only for the mosquitoes, and other holders of the property, whose

excessive attentions were rather embarrassing, we would have got

on very well. As it was, however, I hardly closed an eye all night,

and spent the greater part of it in meandering about the Bauli Bagh,

VESTITO DA NOTTE -- in which operation I rejoice to think that, like

the Russians at the burning of Moscow, I at least put the enemy to

very considerable inconvenience, even at the expense of my own comfort.

JUNE 16. -- About half-past four A.M. we got under weigh again,

heartily delighted to leave the sparrows and their allies in undisputed

possession of their property.

The "kotwal," and other authorities, who had been extremely civil in

providing supplies, coolies, &c., according to the Maharajah's order,

took very good care not to let us depart without a due sense of the

fact, for they bothered us for "bukhshish" just as keenly as the lowest

muleteer; and when I gave the kotwal twelve annas, or one shilling and

sixpence, as all the change I had, he assured me that the khidmutgar

had more, and ran back to prove it by bringing me two rupees. I gave

the scoundrel one, and regretted it for three miles, for he had robbed

the coolies in the morning, either on his own or his master's account,

of one anna, or three-halfpence each, out of their hardly-earned

wages. To-day we find ourselves once more among the rocks and pines,

and as we progressed nothing could exceed the beauty of the views

which opened upon us right and left. A mountain stream attended our

steps the whole way sometimes smoothly and placidly, sometimes dancing

about like a mad thing, and teasing the sturdy old battered rocks and

stones which long ago had settled down in life along its path, and

which, from the amount of polish they displayed, must themselves have

been finely knocked about the world in their day. Rounding a turn of

the river, where it ran deeply under its rocky bank, we came suddenly

upon the ghastly figure of a man carefully suspended in chains from a

prominent tree. His feet had been torn off by the wolves and jackals,

but the upper part of the body remained together, and there he swung

to and fro in the breeze, a ghastly warning to all evildoers, and

a not very pleasing monument of the justice of the country. He was

a sepoy of the Maharajah's army, who had drowned his comrade in the

stream below the place where he thus had expiated his crime. Not far

from this spot we discovered traces of another marauder, in the shape

of a fresh footprint of a tiger or a leopard, just as he had prowled

shortly before along the very path we were pursuing.

From this we gradually got into a region of fruit-trees, interspersed

with pines; and sometimes we came upon a group of scented palms, which

looked strangely enough in such unusual company. Through clustering

pomegranates, figs, plums, peach-trees, wild but bearing fruit, we

journeyed on and on; and, as new beauties arose around us, we could

not help indulging in castles in the air, and forming visions of

earthly paradises, where, with the addition only of such importations

as are inseparable from all ideas of paradise, either in Cashmere or

elsewhere, one might live in uninterrupted enjoyment of existence,

and, at least, bury in oblivion all remembrance of such regions as the

"Plains of India."

About ten A.M., after a continuous series of ups-and-downs of varied

scenery, we arrived at "Chungas," a picturesque old serai, perched

upon a hill over the river. It was marked off in our route as having no

accommodation, but, located among the mouldering remnants of grandeur

of an old temple in the centre of the serai, we managed to make

ourselves very comfortable, and thought our "accommodation" a most

decided improvement upon our late fashionable but rather overcrowded

halting-place. From the serai we can see, for the first time, the

snowy range of the Himalayas, trending northwards, towards the Peer

Punjal Pass, through which our route leads into the Valley of Cashmere.

JUNE 17. -- Another ride through hill and dale to "Rajaori," or

"Rampore," a most picturesque-looking town, built in every possible

style of architecture, and flanked at one extremity by a ruined

castle. Our halting-place was in an ancient serai, with a dilapidated

garden, containing the remains of some rather handsome fountains. It

was situated on a rock, several hundred feet above the river which

separated us from the town; and, from our elevated position, we had

a fine view of the whole place, and got an insight into the manners

and customs of the inhabitants, without their being at all aware of

our proximity.

The women and children appeared to be dressed quite in the Tartar

style: the women with little red square-cornered fez caps, with a

long strip of cloth thrown gracefully over them, and either pyjamas

of blue stuff with a red stripe, or a long loose toga of greyish

cloth, reaching nearly to the feet. The little girls were quite of

the bullet-headed Tartar pattern, of Crimean recollection, but wore

rather less decoration. The Crimean young ladies generally had a three

cornered charm suspended round their necks, while the youthful fashion

of Rajaori, scorning all artificial adornment, selected nature only

as their mantua-maker, and wore their dresses strictly according to

her book of patterns. After enjoying a delightfully cool night in

our elevated bedroom, we started for "Thanna."

Our path led through a gradually ascending valley, cultivated, for

the rice crop, in terraces, and irrigated by a complicated net-work

of channels, cut off from the mountain streams, and branching off

in every direction to the different elevations. The ground was so

saturated in these terraces that ploughing was carried on by means of

a large scraper, like a fender, which was dragged along by bullocks,

the ploughman standing up in the machine as it floundered and wallowed

about, and guiding it through the sea of mud.

JUNE 18. -- Reached Thanna at nine A.M. and came to a halt in a shady

spot outside the village. There was an old serai about half a mile

off, but it was full of merchants and their belongings, and savoured

so strongly of fleas and dirt, that we gave it up as impracticable.

This was the first instance of our finding no shelter; and, as ill

luck would have it, our tents took the opportunity of pitching

themselves on the road, a number of coolies broke down, and one

abandoned our property and took himself off altogether. Under these

interesting circumstances, we were obliged to spend the day completely

AL FRESCO, and to wait patiently for breakfast until the fashionable

hour of half-past two P.M. The inhabitants took our misfortunes very

philosophically, and stopped to stare at us to their heart's content

as they went by for water, wondering, no doubt, at that restless

nature of the crazy Englishman, which drives him out of his own

country for the sole purpose, apparently, of being uncomfortable in

other people's. Our position, although at the foot of the grander

range of mountains, we found very hot, and a good deal of ingenuity

was required in order to find continued shelter from the scorching

rays of the sun. The natives here, seemed to suffer to a great extent

from goitre, and one of our coolies in particular had three enormous

swellings on his neck, horrible to look at. During the night, Rajoo

came in with the missing baggage, except two khiltas, for which no

carriage could be procured, and which he was in consequence obliged

to abandon on the road until assistance could be sent to them.

JUNE 19. -- Started at daybreak from our unsatisfactory quarters, and

enjoyed some of the finest scenery we had yet encountered. The road

ascended pretty sharply into what might be called the REAL mountains,

and finding our spirits rise with the ground, we abandoned our ponies

and resolved to perform the remainder of our wanderings on foot. As we

reached the summit of our first ascent, and our range of view enlarged,

mountain upon mountain rose before us, richly clothed with forest

trees; while, overtopping all, peeped up the glistening summits of

the snowy range, everything around seems cool and pleasant, in spite

of the hot sun's rays, which still poured down upon us. Our road from

this, descending, lay among the nooks and dells of the shady side of

the mountain; and the wild rose and the heliotrope perfumed the air

at every step as we walked along in full enjoyment of the morning

breeze. Our sepoy guide of to-day was not of the educated branch of

the army. He was the stupidest specimen of his race I had ever met;

and as his language was such a jargon as to be nearly unintelligible,

we failed signally in obtaining much information from him.

Among other questions, I made inquiries as to woodcock, the cover

being just suited to them, and after a great deal of difficulty

in explaining the bird to him, he declared that he knew the kind

of creature perfectly, and that there were plenty of them. By way

of convincing us, however, of his sporting knowledge, he added that

they were in the habit of living entirely on fruit; and he was sadly

put out when F. and I both burst into laughter at the idea of an old

woodcock with his bill stuck into a juicy pear, or perhaps enjoying a

pomegranate for breakfast. Shortly after, we came suddenly upon quite

a new feature in the scene -- a strange innovation of liveliness in

the midst of solitude.

At a bend in the road, what should appear almost over our heads but

a troop of about a hundred monkeys, crashing through the firs and

chestnuts, and bounding in eager haste from tree to tree, in their

desire to escape from a party of natives coming from the opposite

direction. They were large brown monkeys, of the kind called lungoors,

standing, some of them, three feet high, and having tails considerably

longer than themselves. Their faces were jet black, fringed with

light grey whiskers, which gave them a most comical appearance.; and

as they jumped along from tree to tree, sometimes thirty and forty

feet, through the air, with their small families following as best

they could, they made the whole forest resound with the crashing of

the branches, and amused us not a little by their aerial line of march.

After crossing a dashing mountain-torrent by a rude bridge of trees

thrown across it, we arrived at the village of Burrumgulla. Here our

guide wanted us to halt in a mud-built native serai, but, with the

recollection of past experience fresh upon us, we declined, preferring

to choose our own ground and pitch our first encampment. The ground

we selected was almost at the foot of a noble waterfall, formed by a

huge cleft in a mass of rugged rock. The water, dashing headlong down,

was hidden in the recess of rock below, but the spray, as it rose up

like vapour and again fell around us, plainly told the history of its

birth and education. Even had we not seen the snowy peaks before us

from the mountain top, there was no mistaking, from its icy breath,

the nursery in which its infant form had been cradled. Just at our

feet was one of the frail and picturesque-looking pine bridges spanning

the torrent; while just below it another mountain river came tumbling

down, and, joining with its dashing friend, they both rolled on in

life together. As soon as our traps arrived, F. and I had a souse in

the quietest pool we could find, and anything so cold I never felt;

it was almost as if one was turned into stone, and stopping in it

more than a second was out of the question. After breakfast and a

SIESTA, we sallied out to try and explore the head of the cataract

above us. After rather a perilous ascent over loose moss and mould,

and clutching at roots of shrubs and trees, we were brought to a

stand by a huge mass of perpendicular rock, which effectually barred

us from the spot through which the water took its final leap. The

upper course of the torrent, however, amply repaid us for our labour,

for it ran through the most lovely dell I ever saw; and as it bounded

down from rock to rock, and roared and splashed along, it seemed to

know what there was before it, and to be rejoicing at the prospect

of its mighty jump. Torrent as it seemed, it was evidently nothing

to what it could swell to when in a rage, for here and there, far

out of its present reach, and scattered all about, were torn and

tattered corpses of forest trees, which had evidently been sucked up

and carried along until some rock more abrupt than its neighbours,

had brought them to a stand and left them, bleached and rotting, in

the summer's sun. At night we found ourselves glad to exchange our

usual covering of a single sheet for a heavy complement of blankets,

and found our encampment not the least too warm. The authorities here

were particularly civil and obliging, and supplied us with the best

of butter, eggs, and milk. The latter was particularly good, and,

not having often tasted cow's milk in the Plains, we did it ample

justice here.

JUNE 20. -- Found it rather hard to turn out this morning, in

consequence of the great change in the temperature, but got under weigh

very well considering. Our path led us up the main torrent towards the

snow, and in the first three miles we crossed about twenty pine-tree

bridges thrown across the stream, some of them consisting of a single

tree, and all in the rudest style of manufacture. Near one of these,

under an immense mass of rock, we passed our first snow. It looked,

however, so strange and unexpected, that we both took it for a block of

stone; and being thatched, as it were, with leaves and small sticks,

&c., and discoloured on all sides, it certainly bore no outward

resemblance to what it really was.

After an almost perpendicular ascent up natural flights of steps, we

reached our next stage, Poshana -- a little mud-built, flat-roofed

settlement on the mountain-side. Here we engaged a couple of

"shikarees," or native sportsmen, and made preparations for a DETOUR

into the snows of the Peer Punjal in search of game.

JUNE 21. -- Having made a division of our property, and sent the

Q.M.G. with an advanced guard two stages on to Heerpore, F. and

I started at daybreak for a five-days' shooting expedition in the

mountains.

We took with us a khidmutgar and bhistie -- both capital servants,

but unfortunately not accustomed to cold, much less to snow. Besides

these, we had ten coolies to carry our baggage, consisting of two

small tents, bedding, guns, and cooking utensils, &c.; and our two

shikarees with their two assistants. The two former wore named Khandari

Khan and Baz Khan, -- both bare-legged, lightly clothed, sharp-eyed,

hardy-looking mountaineers, and well acquainted with the haunts of

game, and passes through the snow.

For the first time we had now to put on grass shoes or sandals;

and though they felt strange at first, we soon found that they were

absolutely necessary for the work we had before us. Our shoemaker

charged us six annas, or ninepence, for eight pairs, and that was

thirty per cent. over the proper price. However, as one good day's

work runs through a new pair, they are all the better for being rather

cheap. Along the road in all directions one comes across cast-off

remains of shoes, where the wearer has thrown off his worn-out ones

and refitted from his travelling stock; and in this way the needy

proprietor of a very indifferent pair of shoes may, perchance, make

a favourable exchange with the cast-off pair of a more affluent

pedestrian; but, to judge from the specimens we saw, he must be

very needy indeed in order to benefit by the transaction. On leaving

Poshana, we immediately wound up the precipitous side of a mountain

above us, and soon found that, from the rarification of the air, and

the want of practice, we felt the necessity of calling a halt very

frequently, for the purpose, of course, of admiring the scenery and

expatiating upon the beauties of nature. About two miles on the way

we came to a slip in the mountain-side, and just as we scrambled,

with some difficulty, across this, our foremost shikaree suddenly

dropped down like a stone, and motioning us to follow his example,

he stealthily pointed us out four little animals, which he called

"markore," grazing at the bottom of a ravine. Putting our sights to

about 250 yards, we fired both together, with the best intentions, but

indifferent results; for they all scampered off apparently untouched,

and we again resumed our march.

Our encamping ground we found situated among a shady grove of

fir-trees, with a mountain-torrent running beneath, bridged over, as

far as we could see, with dingy-looking fields of snow and ice. Here,

in the middle of June; with snow at our feet, above us, and around

us, we pitched our tent, and had breakfast, and laid our plans for a

search for game to-morrow. Though the wind blew cold and chilly off the

snows, we soon found that the midday sun still asserted his supremacy,

and our faces and hands soon bore witness to the fierceness of the

trial of strength between the two. Our camp, although so high up,

was not more than six miles from Poshana, and from thence we drew all

our supplies, such as milk, eggs, and fowls, &c., the coolies' and

shikarees' subsistence being deducted from their pay. Our own living

was not expensive: fowls, threepence each for large, three-halfpence

small; milk, three-halfpence per quart, and eggs, twelve for the

like amount, or one anna. For the rest, we lived upon chupatties, or

unleavened cakes of flour -- very good hot, but "gutta-percha" cold --

potatoes from Lahore, and, in the liquid line, tea and brandy. At night

we slept upon the ground -- pretty hard it was while one was awake to

feel it -- and not having any lamp, we turned in shortly after dark,

while in the morning we were up and dressed before the nightingales

had cleared their voices. These latter abounded all about us, and

formed a most agreeable addition to our establishment.

JUNE 22. -- Left our camp before sunrise, and crossing a large field

of snow over the main torrent, we clambered up the precipitous side

of our opposite mountain. The snow at first felt piercingly cold as

it penetrated our snow-shoes, but before we reached the top, we had

little to complain of in the way of chilliness. Our sharp-sighted

guides soon detected game on the rocks above us, and off we went on

a stalk, over rocks and chasms of snow -- now running, now crawling

along, more like serpents than respectable Christians, and all

in a style that would have astonished nobody more than ourselves,

could we have regarded the performance in the cool light of reason,

and not influenced by the excitement of chasing horned cattle of such

rare and curious proportions.

The markore, however, were quite as interested in the sport as we were,

and after an arduous and protracted stalk, they finally gave us the

slip, and we called a halt at the summit of a hill for breakfast and a

rest during the heat of the day. The former we enjoyed as we deserved,

but for the latter I can't say much : occasionally a cold blast from

off the snow would run right through us, while the sun bore down upon

our heads with scorching power, making havoc with whatever part of us

it found exposed to its rays, and blistering our hands and legs. The

guides helped us out by building up a most ricketty-looking shanty

with sticks and pieces of their garments and our own, and under this

apology for shelter, with our feet almost in the snow, we passed the

day, until it was cool enough again to look for game. In the evening

we came suddenly upon a kustura, a sort of half goat, half sheep,

with long teeth like a wolf. He was, however, in such thick cover,

that we were unable to get a shot at him.

Our camp, we found, moved, according to order, some three miles higher

up, to facilitate the shooting on that side: it was still, however,

among the firs and nightingales.

JUNE 23. -- Up again before sunrise, and off to the tops of the

mountains in search of game. The pull-up took us about an hour and a

half, and on reaching the summit, we found ourselves above the pass

of the Peer Punjal, the rocky and snow-covered ranges of mountain

around us gradually trending off on all sides, and losing themselves in

pine-covered slopes, till they finally blended with the blue outlines

of the ranges of Pills we had crossed on our route from Bimber. While

taking a sharp look around us for a herd of some twenty animals which

we had seen the day previously, we suddenly found ourselves close

to a party of five markore, but they scampered off so fast over rock

and snowdrift, that they gave us no opportunity of getting a shot.

Following them up, we came, while clinging to an overhanging ledge of

rock, upon one solitary gentleman standing about 150 yards below. We

both fired together, but the pace we had come, and the ground we had

crossed, had unsteadied our aim, and though my second bullet parted

the wool on his back, it was not written that our first markore

was to fall so easily. After this we tracked the first herd for

a long distance over the snow, until they scampered down an almost

perpendicular face of snow and ice, and here we gave them up, halting

on a spur of the mountain for a repast of chicken, eggs, chupatties,

and cold tea. During our morning's work we had come across some

most break-neck places, and had one or two narrow escapes, which,

at the time, one was hardly conscious of. The snow was wedged into

the ravines like sheets of ice, and being most precipitous, and

continuing to the very foot of the mountains, terminating in the

numerous torrents which they fed, a single false step in crossing

would have sent one rolling down, without a chance of stopping, to be

dashed to pieces at the bottom. In this way, a couple of years before,

two coolies and a shikaree had been killed, while shooting with an

officer. F. and I generally crossed these places in the footsteps

of the guides, or in holes cut by them for our feet with a hatchet;

but the men themselves passed them with a dash, which only long

practice and complete confidence could have imitated. During our halt

we suffered a good deal from the sun, although the snow was only six

inches off. In spite of the shade which our guides constructed for

us out of mysterious portions of their dress, both our wrists and

ankles were completely swollen and blistered before evening, while

our faces and noses in particular began to assume the appearance so

generally suggestive of Port wine and good living.

Our descent to the camp was a good march in itself, and we arrived

there about five P.M. hot and tired, 'but quite ready for our mountain

fare. On our road, we luckily discovered a quantity of young rhubarb,

growing in nature's kitchen-garden, and pouncing on it, we devoted it

to the celebration of our Sunday dinner.[4] We also saw a number of

minaur, or jungle-fowl, something of the pheasant tribe; but they were

so wild that nothing but slugs would secure them, and they entirely

declined the honour of an invitation to our Sunday entertainment.

JUNE 24. -- We were not at all sorry to remember this morning,

as the sun rose, that it was a day of rest, for after our last

few days of work we were fully able to enjoy it. Amused ourselves

exploring all about us, and picking wild flowers in memory of our

camp. The commonest were wild pansy and forget-me-not, and the

rhododendron grew in quantities. In the afternoon we made a muster

of our standing provisions, having only brought four days' supply,

and seeing little chance of getting back for ten. The result was.,

that tea was reported low, potatoes on their last legs, and brandy

in a declining state. Under these melancholy circumstances, we

agreed to stop another day for shooting, and then march over the

snows for Aliabad and Heerpore, to join our main body at the latter

place. A road by Cheta Panee was declared impracticable for coolies,

in consequence of the hardness of the snow; so we gave it up.

JUNE 25. -- All over the mountains again this morning before daybreak,

and up to breakfast-time without seeing game. However, one of our

sharp-sighted guides then detected markore, grazing at a long distance

up the mountains; even through the glasses they were mere specks,

and, to our unpractised eyes, very like the tufts and stones around

them; but in all faith that our guides were right, off we started in

pursuit. The first step was to lose all our morning's toil by plunging

for a mile or so down a steep descent. After that being accomplished,

up we went again, up and up an apparently interminable bank of snow, at

an angle of about sixty degrees, and slippery as glass. At the summit,

exhausted and completely out of breath, we did at last arrive, and from

this our friends of the morning were expected to be within shot. Not a

sign of a living creature appeared, however, to enliven the solitude

around us, and we began to think that our guides were a little TOO

clear-sighted this time, when what should suddenly come upon us but

a solitary old markore, slowly and leisurely rounding a rugged point

of rock below. We were all squatted in a bunch upon a space about as

large as a good-sized towel; but, hidden as we thought ourselves,

I could discern that our friend had evidently caught a glimpse of

something which displeased him in his morning cogitations. Still,

on he came, and just as he crossed a small field of snow, F. opened

fire at him across the ravine: the ball struck just below his body,

and, as he plunged forward, I followed with both barrels. On he went,

however, and before another shot could be fired he was coolly looking

down upon us from a terrace of inaccessible rocks, completely out of

range. Nothing remained but to descend again, and this we accomplished

very much more speedily, though perhaps not quite in such a graceful

style as we had ascended. The shikarees merely sat down on the inclined

plane, and with a hatchet or a stick firmly pressed under the arm as

a lever to regulate the pace, or a rudder to steer clear of rocks as

occasion might require, down they went at a tremendous pace, until

the slope was not sufficient to propel them further.

Our own wardrobe being limited in dimensions we declined adopting this

mode of locomotion, and slipping and sliding along, soon accomplished

the descent, in a less business-like but equally satisfactory

manner. While taking the direction of our camp, we espied seven more

animals, perched apparently upon a smooth face of rock; and after a

short council of war off we started on a fresh stalk, down another

descent, over more fields of snow, and up a place where a cat would

have found walking difficult.

While accomplishing this latter movement, our guides detected two

huge red bears, an enormous distance off, enjoying themselves in

the evening air, and feeding and scratching themselves alternately,

as they sauntered about in the breeze. Abandoning our present stalk,

which was not promising, down we went again, and crossing about a

mile and a half of broken ground, snow, rocks, &c., we reached a wood

close to the whereabouts of our new game. F. and I, separating, had

made the place by different routes, and just as I had caught sight of

one enormous monster, F. and the shikaree appeared, just on the point

of walking into his jaws. Having, by great exertion, prevented this

catastrophe, we massed our forces, and taking off our hats, just as if

we were stalking an unpopular landed proprietor in Tipperary, we crept

up to within sixty yards of the unsuspicious monster, and fired both

together. With a howl and a grunt, the huge mass doubled himself up,

and rolled into the cover badly wounded. Being too dangerous a looking

customer to follow directly, we reloaded and made a circuit above him;

and after a short search, discovered him with his paws firmly clasped

round a young tree. By way of finishing him, I gave him the contents of

my rifle behind the ear, and we then rolled him down a ravine on to the

snow beneath, where, a heavy storm of rain, hail, and thunder coming

on, we left him alone in his glory. Putting our best legs foremost,

we made for our camp, amid a pelting shower of hail like bullets and

an incessant play of lightning around us, as we pushed our way along

the frozen torrent. About five P.M., tired and drenched, we reached

the camp, when we discovered that our tents, though extremely handy

for mountain work, were not intended to keep out much rain, and that

all our rugs, and other comforts, were almost in as moist a state as

ourselves. During the entire night it continued to hail, rain, thunder,

and lighten; and with the exception of the exact spots we were each

lying on, there was not a dry place in the tent to take refuge in.

JUNE 26. -- After an exceedingly moist night, we made the most of a

little sunshine by turning out all our property, and hanging it around

us on stones and bushes to dry. After we had distinguished ourselves in

this way, for a couple of hours, down came the rain again; and after

stowing our half-dried goods, we assembled under a tree, and held a

council of war as to our future movements. The rain had swelled the

mountain torrents considerably, and the hail, lying on the old snow,

had made it slippery as glass, so that we were obliged to give up

the mountain pass we had agreed upon, and decided on a retreat to

"Poshana," our present ground being fairly untenable. Sending off

our tents and traps, and half-drowned servants, who were completely

out of their element, we remained behind under the pines till the

rain a little abated, and having secured the bear-skin for curing, we

started off with our rear-guard for Poshana. The road was so slippery,

that even with grass-shoes we could hardly keep from falling; and

the snow we found as hard as ice, and proportionately difficult to

cross. The consequence was, that in passing a steep incline with the

guide, he slipped, and I followed his example, and down we both went

like an engine and tender, the guide fishing about with his legs for

obstacles, and I above him, endeavouring to use my pole as an anchor

to bring us to.

Luckily, we both reached TERRA FIRMA safely, after a perilous run,

though at the same side we started from, and a long distance from our

point of previous departure. On at length reaching the opposite side,

we found a disconsolate coolie bemoaning himself and reckoning his

bones, having also fallen down the snow, while a little further on we

came upon the bhistie lamenting over a similar disaster. The latter

functionary had also lost a valuable pot of virgin honey, which had

only come up from Poshana the day before, and which we had not had

time to see the inside of even, ere it was thus lost to us for ever,

and made over as a poetical reparation to the bears of the country for

the ruthless murder we had committed on one of their number. Found the

hut at Poshana empty, and were glad to get into its shelter again. The

rain seeming quite set in, we determined to discharge our shikarees,

and after paying them three rupees each for their week's work, we

sent them away perfectly happy, with a few copper caps and a good

character apiece.

JUNE 27. -- Left Poshana at five A.M., and made for the Peer

Punjal pass. A sharp struggle brought us to the summit, where we

found a polygon tower erected, apparently as a landmark and also

a resting-place for travellers to recover themselves after their

exertions.[5] At the Cashmere side of the pass I had expected to see

something of the far-famed valley, but nothing met the eye but a wild

waste of land, bounded on all sides by snow, while a few straggling

coolies toiled up towards us with some itinerant Englishman's baggage

like our own.

This turned out to belong to a party returning to Sealkote, and

we were rather elated by seeing among their possessions several

enormous antlers, which promised well for sport at the other side

of the valley. They turned out, however, to have been bought, and,

as their owners informed us, there was no chance of meeting such game

until October or November. About two miles down the pass we reached

the old serai of Aliabad, and found the only habitable part of it

in possession of a clergyman and a young Bengal artilleryman bound

for the shooting-grounds we had just left. With much difficulty we

obtained a few eggs, and a little milk with which we washed down the

chupatties we had brought with us; but the coolies were so long getting

over the path, that no signs of breakfast made their appearance until

about two o'clock. At mid-day it came on to rain heavily, and we took

up our quarters in a miserable den, with a flooring of damp rubbish

and a finely carved stone window not very much in keeping with the

rest of the establishment. Here we spent the day drearily enough,

the prospect being confined to a green pool of water in the middle

of the serai, around which the Pariah dogs contended with the crows

for the dainties of offal scattered about. As soon as it was dark,

we were glad enough to spread our waterproof sheets on the ground,

and sleep as well as the thousands of tenants already in possession

would allow us.

JUNE 28. -- Up at sunrise, and packed off our things down the mountain

for Heerpore, where the main body of our possessions were concentrated.

Shortly after their departure it began to rain an Irish and Scotch

combined mist, and after warming our toes and blinding our eyes over a

wood fire for about three hours, in hopes of its clearing, we donned

grass-shoes and, putting our best legs foremost, accomplished about

thirteen miles of a most slippery path without a halt, except for

the occasional purpose of adjusting our dilapidated shoes.

After the first five or six miles the path entered a beautifully-wooded

valley, and at one spot, where two torrents joined their foaming waters

at the foot of a picturesque old ivy-grown serai, the landscape was

almost perfection. Passing this, we entered a thickly-shaded wood,

studded with roses and jessamine, and peopled with wood-pigeons

and nightingales, who favoured us with a morning concert as we

passed. Crossing a wooden bridge over the torrent, we reached a fine

grass country, and here the presence of a herd of cows told us we were

near our destination. At Heerpore we found Mr. Rajoo located with all

our belongings in a little wooden sort of squatter's cabin, where we

were glad to take shelter out of the dripping rain. It reminded one

strongly of Captain Cuttle's habitation and a ship's cabin together,

and made one feel inclined to go on deck occasionally. It was on

the whole, however, very comfortable, and seemed, after our late

indifferent quarters, to be a perfect palace. After breakfast, we

made inquiries as to our worldly affairs, and found that all were

thriving with the exception of the potatoes, which had been taken

worse on the road, and were already decimated by sickness. We added

a sheep to our stock, for which we paid three shillings, and laid

in a welcome supply of butter. The khidmutgar and bhistie, we found,

had retailed the history of their many sorrows to the other servants,

and, having expatiated most fully on the horrors they had endured

among the snows and thunderstorms of the mountains, were promising

themselves a speedy end to all their woes among the peace and plenty

of the promised land of Cashmere.

JUNE 29. -- After some trouble in procuring coolies, we started at

eleven in a shower of rain, and found ourselves gradually passing

into the valley, and exchanging rocks and firs for groves of walnut;

and moss and fern for the more civilized strawberry and the wild

carnation. The strawberries, though small, had a delicious flavour,

and we whiled away the time by gathering them as we passed. About

two o'clock we reached the village of Shupayon, and here began to

perceive a considerable change in the style of architecture from what

we had been accustomed to; the flat mudden roof giving place to the

sharply-pitched wooden one, thatched with straw, or coarsely TILED

with wood.

Our halting-place we found, for the first time, to possess a staircase

and upper story. A little square habitation it was, with a verandah all

round it, and built entirely of wood. From this, as the clouds lifted

from the mountain-tops around, a most lovely view opened out before us.

Wherever the eye rested toward the mountains, the snow-capped peaks

raised themselves up into the clear blue sky; while at our feet lay

the far-famed valley, reaching towards the north, to the very base

of the mountain range, and rising gradually and by a gentle slope

to our halting-place, and so back to the pass from which we had

just descended.

As the sun appeared to have come out again permanently, we took the

opportunity of getting our tents and other property which had suffered

from the wet out for a general airing.

JUNE 30. -- Marched about nine miles through fertile slopes of

rice-fields, shaded by walnuts and sycamores, and found our

halting-place situated in a serai, shrouded in mulberry and

cherry trees, and with a charming little rivulet running through

it, discoursing sweet music night and day. Our habitation was a

baraduree, or summer-house, of wood, and having an upper room with

trellised windows, where we spent the day very pleasantly. At dinner

we had the first instalment of the land of promise, in the shape of

a roly-poly pudding of fresh cherries, a thing to date from in our

hitherto puddingless circumstances.

JULY 1. -- Started at daybreak for our last march into the

capital. The first appearance of the low part of the valley was rather

disappointing, for there was nothing striking in the view; still, the

country was extremely fertile, and its tameness was redeemed by the

glorious mountain range, which bounded the valley in every direction,

with its pure unsullied fringe of snow. Our path was occasionally

studded with the most superb sycamores and lime-trees; and as we

approached the town we entered a long avenue of poplars, planted as

closely together as possible, and completely hiding all the buildings

until close upon them. Passing through the grand parade-ground, we

found a bustling throng of about four hundred Cashmeeries, with heavy

packs beside them, waiting for an escort to take out supplies to the

Maharajah's army, now on active service at a place called Girgit,

in the mountains. The said army seemed to be fighting with nobody

knew who, about nobody knew what; but report says that his Highness,

having a number of troops wanting arrears of pay, sends them out

periodically to contend with the hill tribes, by way of settlement

in full of all demands.

Having engaged a boat's crew at Ramoon, we were, on arriving at the

River Jhelum, which runs through the city, immediately inducted to the

manners and customs of the place; and being safely deposited in a long

flat-bottomed boat, with a mat roof and a prow about twelve feet out of

the water, we were paddled across by our six new servants, and landed

among a number of bungalows on the right bank, which were erected by

the Maharajah for the reception of his English visitors. These are

entirely of wood, of the rudest construction, and are built along

the very edge of the river, which is here about a hundred yards broad.

We were received on landing by the Baboo and Moonshee, the native

authorities retained by the Maharajah for the convenience of his

visitors; and learning from them that there were no bungalows vacant,

we pitched our little camp under a shady grove of trees close by; and

thus, in the capital of the land of poetry and promise, the far-famed

paradise of the Hindoo, we brought our wanderings to an end for the

present, and gave ourselves and our retainers a rest from all the

toils and troubles of the road.

A Halt in the Valley.

Being fairly settled in our quarters, we were not long in putting our

new staff of dependants into requisition; and, taking to our boat,

sallied forth to get a general view of the city of Sirinugger.[6]

Finding, however, a review of the army going on, we stopped at the

parade-ground to witness the interesting ceremony. The troops we found

drawn up in lines, forming the sides of a large square, and dressed in

what his Highness Rumbeer Singh believes confidently to be the ENGLISH

COSTUME. As far as one could see, however, the sole foundation for

this belief lay in the fact of their all wearing trousers! These were

certainly the only articles of their equipment that could in any way

be called English in style; and they bore, after all, but a slender

resemblance to the corresponding habiliments of the true Briton.

The head-dress, generally speaking, was a turban. One regiment,

however, had actually perpetrated a parody on the English shako --

a feat which I had always hitherto considered absolutely impossible.

The cavalry were mounted upon tattoos, or native ponies, and wore

white trousers, with tight straps, which rendered them for the time

being the most miserable of their race.

A few of them had imitations of Lancer caps, some had boots, some

slippers, some spurs, others none; some had wondrous straps of tape

and cord, others wore their trousers up to their knees; but one and

all were entirely uniform in looking completely ill at ease and out

of their element in their borrowed would-be-English plumage. Just

as we had finished taking a general view of the army, the Maharajah

appeared upon the stage, dressed in a green-and-gold embroidered gown

and turban and tight silk pantaloons, mounted on a grey caparisoned

Arab steed. After riding round the lines with his retinue, he came up,

and we were presented in due form; and after asking us if we had come

from Allahabad, and expressing his opinion that it was a long way off,

in which we entirely concurred with him, he shook hands in English

style; and, taking his seat in a chair which was placed for him, we

collected ourselves around, and, similarly seated, prepared to inspect

the marching past of his highness's redoubtables. Before this began,

however, the Maharajah's little son made his appearance, dressed in all

respects like his papa, with miniature sword and embroidered raiment;

and to him we were also introduced in form. During the marching past,

I congratulated myself upon being several seats distant from his

highness's chair, for the effect was so absurd that it was almost

impossible to preserve that dignity and composure which the occasion

demanded.

The marching was in slow time, and the step being fully thirty-six

inches the fat little dumpy officers nearly upset themselves in their

efforts to keep time, and at the same time prevent their slippers

from deserting on the line of march; while, in bringing their swords

to the salute, they did it with a swing which was suggestive of

their throwing away their arms altogether. Besides artillery, five

regiments of infantry and two of cavalry marched past -- in all,

little over 2,000 men -- colours flying and bands playing "Home,

sweet home!" After this the irregulars began to appear; and although

the first part of the army might have almost deserved the name, these

put them completely in the shade. One colonel had a pair of enormous

English gold epaulettes and a turban; another a black embroidered suit,

with white tape straps, and slippers; and as for the men, there were

no two of them dressed alike, while in the way of arms, each pleased

his own particular fancy also. A long gun over the shoulder was the

most popular weapon; but each had, in addition, a perfect armoury

fastened in his girdle: pistols with stocks like guns, daggers and

even blunderbusses made their appearance; and the general effect, as

the crowd galloped independently past, dressed in their many-coloured

turbans, and flowing apparel, was most picturesque. As soon as the

last of the flags and banners and prancing horses had gone past, the

Maharajah set us the example of rising, and mounting his grey steed,

cantered off in state, surrounded by the crowd of dusky parasites,

arrayed in gold and jewels, who formed his court.

His Highness appeared to be about thirty-eight years old, and was as

handsome a specimen of a native as I had ever seen. He wore a short,

jet-black beard, and mustachios, turned up from the corners of his

mouth, and reaching, in two long twists, nearly to his eyes. He

appeared absent and thoughtful which, considering the low state of

his exchequer, was perhaps not to be wondered at.[7] His English

visitors spend a good deal of money every summer in his kingdom;

and for this reason alone, he is anxious enough to cultivate their

acquaintance, and gives naches, or native dances, and champagne

dinners periodically to amuse them. He presents, also, an offering to

each traveller that arrives, and we in due course received two sheep,

two fowls, and about fourteen little earthen dishes containing rice,

butter, spices, eggs, flour, fruit, honey, sugar, tea, &c., all of

which were laid at the door of our tent, with great pomp and ceremony,

by a host of attendants.

After the review, we took boat again and paddled down the stream to

look at the town, and a quainter and more picturesque-looking old

place it would be hard to conceive. The, houses are built entirely

of wood, of five and six stories, and overhanging the river, and

are as close as possible to each other, except where here and there

interspersed with trees. Communication is kept up between the banks

by means of wooden rustic bridges, built on enormous piles of timber,

laid in entire trees, crossing each other at equal distances. Not a

single straight line is to be seen in any direction -- the houses being

dilapidated and generally out of the perpendicular; and everywhere the

river view is bounded by the snow-capped ranges of mountain, which,

towards the north, appear to rise almost from the very water's edge.

JULY 2. -- Taking the Q.M.G. as a guide, we sallied out

immediately after breakfast to explore the land part of this Eastern

Venice. Entering at the city gate, on the left bank of the river, near

the Maharajah's palace, we walked past a row of trumpery pop-guns, on

green and red carriages, and so through the most filthy and odoriferous

bazaar I ever met with, till we reached the residence of Saifula Baba,

the great shawl merchant of Sirinugger. Here we found a noted shawl

fancier inspecting the stock, and were inducted to the mysteries of

the different fabrics. Some that we saw were of beautiful workmanship,

but dangerous to an uninitiated purchaser. They ranged from 300 to

1,000 rupees generally, but could be ordered to an almost unlimited

extent of price. After inspecting a quantity of Pushmeena and other

local manufactures, Mr. Saifula Baba handed us tea and sweetmeats,

after the fashion of his country; and we adjourned to the abode of a

worker in papier mache, where we underwent a second edition of tea

and sweetmeats, and inspected a number of curiosities. The chief

and only beauty of the work was in the strangeness of the design;

and some of the shawl patterns, reproduced on boxes, &c., were

pretty in their way, but as manufacturers of papier mache simply,

the Cashmeeries were a long way behind the age.

On reaching home, we found that the Maharajah had sent his salaam,

together with the information that he was going to give a nach and

dinner, to which we were invited.

JULY 3. -- After continuing our explorations of Sirinugger, we

repaired, about seven o'clock, to the Maharajah's palace, where we

were received by a guard of honour of sixty men and four officers.,

the latter in gold embroidered dresses, and hung all over with

ear-rings and finery of divers sorts and kinds.

Ascending the stairs, we were met by the DEEWAN, or prime minister,

who conducted us into an open sort of terrace over the river, where

we found the Maharajah with the few English officers already arrived

seated on either side of him, and the nach-girls, about twenty in

number, squatted in a semicircle opposite them. Standing behind his

Highness were colonels of regiments and native dignitaries of all

sorts, dressed in cloth of gold and jewels, and in every variety

and hue of turban and appointments. A number of these were Sikhs;

and magnificent-looking men they were, with their flowing dress and

fiercely-twisted whiskers and mustachios. The nach-girls, too --

a motley group -- were attired in all the hues of the rainbow, and

with the white-robed musicians behind them, awaited in patience the

signal to commence. In singular contrast to this glittering throng,

which formed the court, were the guests whom the Maharajah, on this

occasion, delighted to honour. The British officer appeared generally

in the national but uncourtly costume of a shooting jacket! and

though some few had donned their uniform, and one rejoiced in the

traditional swallow-tail of unmistakeable civilization, neither the

one nor the other contrasted favourably in point of grace with the

Cashmerian rank and fashion.

After shaking hands with his Highness, who prides himself upon his

English way of accomplishing that ceremony, and does it by slipping

into one's hand what might be taken for a dying flat fish, we took

our seats, and the dancing began shortly afterwards. Though on a

more magnificent scale than anything I had seen of the kind before,

the programme was flat and insipid enough. The ladies came out two and

two, and went through a monotonous die-away movement, acting, dancing,

and singing all at the same time, and showing off their red-stained

palms and the soles of their feet to the best advantage. Some of the

women were very pretty, but very properly they modified their charms

by dressing in the most unbecoming manner possible. Their head-dress

was a little cloth of gold and silver cap hung all round with pendent

ornaments, and these were becoming enough, but the remainder of the

dress was much more trying. A short body of shot silk was separated

by a natural border from a gauze skirt, which hung down perfectly

straight and innocent of fulness, and allowed a pair of white pyjamas

to appear beneath. These were fastened tightly round the ancles,

which were encircled by little bunches of the tinkling bells, which

the ladies make such use of in the dance. Round the shoulders comes

a filmy scarf of various colours, which also plays a prominent part

in all their movements, and answers in its way to the fan of more

accomplished Western belles.

After each couple had gone through the whole of their performances,

they used to squat themselves down suddenly in the most ungraceful

style imaginable, and were then relieved by another pair of artistes

from the group.

One lady, in addition to the dance, favoured us with "the Marseillaise"

with the French words, being occasionally prompted by the head

of the orchestra, who nearly worked himself into a frenzy while

accompanying the dancers with both vocal and instrumental music at

the same time. The Maharajah himself was plainly dressed in white

robes, with a pair of pale-green striped silk pantaloons fitting his

legs like stockings from the knee down, and terminating in a pair of

English socks, of which he seemed immensely proud. His turban was of

the palest shade of green, and (in strong contrast to the rest of his

court) without any ornament whatever. The little heir to the throne --

a nice little blackamoor of about eight years of age -- was, like his

father, perched upon a chair, and arrayed in a green and gold turban,

pants, and socks, with the addition of a velvet gold-embroidered coat,

while round his neck were three or four valuable necklaces, one of

pear-shaped emeralds of great size and beauty. After a few dances the

doors of the banqueting-room were thrown open, and his Highness led

the way into dinner with the commissioner. On entering, we found a

capital dinner laid out English fashion, and with a formidable army

of black bottles ranged along the table. The Maharajah, however, had

disappeared, and we were left to feed without a host. The grandees,

meanwhile, remained outside, and still enjoyed the dances, ranging

themselves upon their haunches in front of the rows of chairs which

not one among them would have dared to trust himself in for either

love or money. Considering that our entertainer was a Hindoo, and

that his dinner-giving appliances were limited, each person having

to bring his own knife, fork, spoon, and chair, we fared very well,

and after having drunk his health, again assembled in the court,

where we found Rumbeer Singh still occupied with the wearisome nach,

and reattired in a gorgeous dress of green velvet and gold. After a

short stay he got up, and we all followed his example, glad enough

to bring the entertainment to an end, and betake ourselves to our

boats. At the stairs there was a desperate encounter with innumerable

boatmen, each boat having six, eight, or ten sailors, and all being

equally anxious to uphold the credit of their craft by being the

first to land their masters safe, at home. We were fortunate enough to

reach our own at once, and, with a shouting crew, away we dashed up

the river, leaving the others struggling, fighting, and flourishing

their paddles in the air, in a way which was more suggestive of an

insurrection scene in Masaniello than the departure of guests from

a peaceable gentleman's own hall door on the night of an evening party.

On the stairs there was an extraordinary assemblage of slippers, which

seemed to hold the same relative position that hats and cloaks do in

more enlightened communities -- that is, the good ones were taken by

the owners of the bad, and the proprietors of the bad ones were fain

to make the best of the exchange. Next morning our khidmutgar came up

with a most doleful countenance and presented to our notice a pair of

certainly most ill-favoured slippers, which a fellow true-believer had

INADVERTENTLY substituted for a pair of later date. The lost ones had,

in fact, only recently been received from the boot-maker; and the

blow was difficult to bear with resignation, even by the saintliest

follower of Islam -- a reputation which our retainer came short of

by a very long way indeed.

JULY 4. -- Having an accumulation of letters to answer, we devoted the

day to writing -- merely enjoying a little OTIUM CUM DIG. -- in the

evening, reclining in our boat while serenaded by the crew of boatmen.

JULY 5. -- Walked up, before daybreak, to the Tukht e Suleeman,

or Solomon's throne, "the mountainous Portal," which Moore speaks

of in LALLA ROOKH, and which forms the most striking landmark in

the valley.[8]

From the summit there was a curious view of the multitudinous wooden

houses and the sinuous windings of the river, which could alone be

obtained from such a bird's-eye point of inspection. An old temple

at the top was in the hands of the Hindoo faction, being dedicated

to the goddess Mahadewee, and in charge of it I found two of the

dirtiest fukeers, or religious mendicants, I ever had the pleasure

of meeting. One was lying asleep, with his feet in a heap of dust and

ashes, and the other was listlessly sitting, without moving a muscle,

warming himself in the morning sun. Both were almost naked, and had

their bodies and faces smeared with ashes and their hair long and

matted. They appeared to have arrived at a state of almost entire

abstraction, and neither of them even raised his eyes or seemed to

be in the slightest degree aware of my presence, although I took a

sketch of one of them, and stared at both, very much as I would have

done at some new arrival of animals in the Zoological Gardens.

In the evening we went again to Saifula Baba's and visited the

workrooms, where we were much astonished by the quickness with which

the people worked the intricate shawl patterns with a simple needle,

and no copy to guide them.

The first stages of the work are not very promising, but the finished

result, when pressed and rolled and duly exhibited by that true

believer Saifula Baba, in his snowy gown and turban, was certainly

in every way worthy of its reputation.

Returning home, we visited a garden where any of the English visitors

who die in the valley are buried -- the Maharajah presenting a

Cashmere shawl, in some instances, to wrap the body in. There were

about eight or ten monuments built of plaster, with small square

slabs for inscriptions. One of these was turned topsy-turvey, which

was not to be wondered at, for a native almost always holds English

characters upside-down when either trying to decipher them himself

or when holding them to be read by others.

JULY 6. -- In the early morning I ascended to the throne of Solomon,

in order to get a sketch of the Fort of Hurree Purbut, and in the

afternoon we repaired to the lake behind the town, where there was a

grand Mela or fair, on the water, to which the Maharajah and all his

court went in state. The lake is beautifully situated at the foot of

the mountains, and was covered so densely in many parts with weed and

water-plants that it bore quite the appearance of a floating garden;

and as the innumerable boats paddled about, with their bright and

sunny cargoes, talking and laughing and enjoying themselves to their

heart's content, the scene began to identify itself in some measure

with Moore's description of the "Sunny lake of cool Cashmere," and

its "Plane-tree isle reflected clear," although the poet's eyes had

never rested on either lake or isle. Putting poetry on one side,

however, for the present, we made our way to the extremity of the

lake, in order to pay a visit to his Highness's gaol, where we were

received by a very civil gaoler, equipped with a massive sword and

dilapidated shield. We found 110 prisoners in the place, employed

generally in converting dhan into chawul, or, in other words,

clearing the rice-crop. There was also a mill for mustard oil, and

the most primitive machine for boring fire-arms ever invented, both

worked by water-power. The prison dress was uniform in the extreme:

it consisted simply of a suit of heavy leg-irons and nothing more!

After seeing the fair, we paddled across through a perfect water-meadow

to the Shalimar gardens, where we found the Rajah and his suite

just taking their departure. The vista on entering the gardens was

extremely pretty: four waterfalls appear at the same moment, sending

a clear sheet of crystal water over a broad stone slab, and gradually

receding from sight in the wooded distance. A broad canal runs right

through the gardens, bridged at intervals by summer-houses and crossed

by carved and quaintly-fashioned stepping stones. At the extremity

there is a magnificent baradurree of black marble, which looks as if

it had been many centuries in existence, and had originally figured in

some very different situation. The pillars were entire to a length of

seven feet, and were highly polished from the people leaning against

them. Around this, in reservoirs of water, were about two hundred

fountains, all spouting away together, and on one side a sheet of

the most perfectly still water I ever saw. It appeared exactly like

a large looking-glass, and it was impossible to discern where the

artificial bank which inclosed it either began or terminated.

In these gardens it was that Selim, or Jehangeer the son of Akbar,

used to spend so many of his days with the far-famed Noor Jehan in the

beginning of the seventeenth century, and here was the scene of their

reconciliation, as related by Feramorz to Lalla Rookh ere he revealed

himself to her as her future lord, the king of Bucharia. From these

founts and streams it was that the fair Persian sought to entice her

lord, with "Fly to the desert, fly with me!"

"When breathing, as she did, a tone

To earthly lutes and lips unknown;

With every chord fresh from the touch

Of Music's spirit, -- 'twas too much!"

"The light of the universe" overcomes even the "conqueror of the

world." Thinking it, after all, wiser to kiss and be friends than be

sulky, he surrenders at discretion: --

"And, happier now for all their sighs,

As on his arm her head reposes,

She whispers him with laughing eyes,

'Remember, love, the Feast of Roses!' "

Leaving the favourite haunts of the "magnificent son of Akbar," we

crossed the lake again to see the Maharajah inspect a party of about

2,000 soldiers, who were departing for the war at Girgit. Nothing

in the way of supplies being procurable near the scene of action,

the greater part of the review was taken up by the marching past of a

horde of Cashmeree and mountain porters, heavily laden with the sinews

of war. According to report, the pay of the army here is about five

shillings per mensem, with a ration of two pounds of rice per diem.

In the evening, the number of boats congregated on the lake

was marvellous. All were perfectly crammed with Cashmerian

pleasure-seekers; but the turbaned faithful, in spite of the pressure,

in no way lost their dignity, but with pipes and coffee enjoyed

themselves in apparently entire unconsciousness of there being a soul

on the lake beside themselves. The most wonderful sight, however,

was the immense crowd of many-coloured turbans congregated on shore,

witnessing the departure of the Cashmerian Guards; and as they thronged

the green slopes in thousands, they gave one quite the idea of a mass

of very violent-coloured flowers blooming together in a garden. On

our way home we had great jostling, and even fighting, in order to

maintain our position among the crowds of boats, the result of which

was that our crew managed to break two paddles in upholding the dignity

and respectability of their masters. The Maharajah himself, however,

gave us the go-by in great style, in a long quaint boat, propelled by

thirty-six boatmen, and built with a broad seat towards the bows, in

shape like the overgrown body of a gig in indifferent circumstances,

on which his Highness reclined. By his side was the little prince,

in glorious apparel, while half a dozen of his court, arrayed in

spotless white, appeared like so many snow-drifts lying at his feet.

JULY 7. -- Made our arrangements to-day for a trip by water to the

Wuler Lake, and spent the afternoon in inspecting the jeweller's and

other shops in the city. The native workmen appear to engrave cleverly

both on stone and metal, and some of their performances would bear

comparison with any European workmanship of a similar kind. They

also work in filagree silver, charging about sixpence in every two

shillings' worth of silver for their labour. About nine P.M. we took to

our boats; F. and I occupying one together, in which we stowed bedding,

dressing-things, &c. while the cooking apparatus and servants occupied

the other. Passed the night very comfortably, and found the situation

most conducive to sleep, as we glided gently along with the stream.

JULY 8. -- Awoke to find an innumerable swarm of mosquitoes buzzing

about our habitation, and apparently endeavouring to carry it

off bodily. Letting down, however, the muslin curtains, which the

foreknowledge of the faithful Q.M.G. had provided us with, we succeeded

in puzzling the enemy for the time being. About eight o'clock, the

fleet came to an anchor at a luxuriant little island at the entrance

of the great lake; to all appearance, however, it might have been

situated in a meadow, for we had to force our way to it through a

perfect plain of green water-plants, whose slimy verdure covered the

face of the lake for miles around. It was wooded by mulberry trees,

very prettily entwined with wild vines, and in the midst were the

remains of an old Musjid, in which we discovered a slab of black

marble, covered with a beautifully carved inscription in Arabic, and

appearing as if it had not always held the ignoble position which it

now occupied. Scattered about the island, also, were many scraps of

columns and carved stones, which gave evidence of having belonged

to some ancient temple or palace. While thus surveying our island,

we were pestered to death by swarms of prodigious mosquitoes, for

which the Wuler Lake is justly celebrated, and during breakfast the

eating was quite as much on their side as ours; so that we were glad

to weigh anchor, and with our curtains tightly tucked in around us,

we floated away, in lazy enjoyment of climate and scenery, towards the

centre of the lake. As we cleared the margin of the water-plants, we

found ourselves on a glassy surface, extending away towards the west

as far as the eye could see, and bordered on all sides by gorgeous

mountains and ranges of snow. Around the edges of the lake a sunny

mirage was playing tricks with the cattle and the objects on the banks,

and as we glided lazily on with the stream, and the splashing paddles,

and even the foiled mosquitoes, made music about us, we began to

enter more into the spirit of our situation, and to appreciate the

peculiar beauties of the "sunny lake of cool Cashmere," with the

DOLCE FAR NIENTE existence which of right belongs to it. About one

o'clock we reached Sompoor, at the Baramoula extremity of the lake,

and as it came on to blow a little, it was not too soon: our boats

were totally unadapted for anything rougher than a mill-pond, and in

the ripple excited by the small puffs of wind, I had the misfortune

to ship what was, under the circumstances, a heavy sea, and so

sacrificed the prospects of a dry lodging for the night. Sompoor we

found a picturesque but dirty village, with promise of good fishing,

in the river below it. We unfortunately had no tackle, but the boatmen

succeeded in catching five or six good fish with a hook baited with a

mulberry only : a very favourite article of consumption, apparently,

among the Cashmerian little fishes.

Dropping down the river, we dined on the bank among the mulberry trees,

and I afterwards essayed to take a sketch of the village; such a firm

and determined body of mosquitoes, however, immediately fell upon

me, that, after a short but unsuccessful combat, I was fairly put to

flight, and Sompoor remained undrawn. We passed the night above the

town, ready for an early start in the morning.

JULY 9. -- Left our moorings before sunrise, and halted about eight

A.M. at a little island stacked with elephant-grass, where, after

as good a swim as the tangled weeds would permit, we breakfasted

pleasantly under the trees.

From this point we adopted a new mode of progression, the boatmen

towing us from the bank; and the motion was a great improvement on

the paddling system, except that it had a tendency to set one to

sleep altogether. Reached Sirinugger, and our camp again, at four P.M.

JULY 10. -- Paid Saifula Baba, the shawl merchant, a visit to-day,

in order to get a bill of exchange on Umritsur cashed. Found

him just going out to Mosque, in his snow-white robe and turban,

cleanly-shaved pate, and golden slippers. Not having any money,

he promised us a hundred rupees of the Maharajah's coinage to go on

with. These nominal rupees are each value 10 annas, or 1S. 3D., the

most chipped and mutilated objects imaginable. On one face of the coin

are the letters I.H.S. stamped, a strange enough device for a heathen

or any other mint to have adopted. While floating about the Eastern

Venice, we discovered a number of finely-cut old blocks of stone in

the built-up wall which bounded the river; and on inspecting the place,

we came upon an ancient Mussulman cemetery and ruined Musjid, in which

there were some very antique-looking carvings, which apparently had

commenced life elsewhere than on Mussulman ground. The graveyard,

however, was itself extremely old, although many of the turbaned and

lettered tombstones of the faithful were in perfect preservation. All

began with the "La Ulah ila Ullah," or "B'ism Ullah,"[9] with which

everything connected with a Mussulman does commence, either in life

or death.

All through the city one can trace the remains of some much more

ancient structure in the huge blocks of carved stone which are

scattered about among their more plebeian brethren, and serve to form

with them, in humble forgetfulness of past grandeur, the foundations

of the lofty rattletrap but picturesque wooden structures which line

both sides of the river and form the city of Cashmere in the year of

grace 1860.

Some of these houses, as one looks into the narrow lanes leading to

the river and sees them in profile, are apparently in the last stage

of dissolution, leaning out of the perpendicular and overtopping their

lower stories and foundations in a way that would put even the leaning

tower of Pisa to shame. One six-storied house, of long experience

in this crooked world, had made the most wonderful efforts to redeem

his character and to recover his equilibrium by leaning the contrary

way aloft from what he did below. Poor fellow! he had been but badly

conducted in his youth, and was nobly endeavouring to correct his

ways in a mossy and dilapidated old age. The tracery of much of the

wood-work carvings, and particularly of the windows, varies greatly,

and in some places is so minute that it requires close inspection to

find out the design. Of these the Zenana windows of the Maharajah's

palace are about the finest specimens; but as there is no way of

approaching them closely, it is impossible to make out their details.

JULY 11. -- Started this evening by water for Islamabad, the ancient

capital of Cashmere.

We made a slight change in our arrangements, rather for the better,

by hiring a large boat for ourselves and handing our own over to the

servants and culinary department in general.

JULY 12. -- Found ourselves not very far on our road on awakening

this morning, the night having been very dark, the current strong

against us, and the sailors lazy.

Another cause of delay also, if these were insufficient, was, that

the proprietor of the boat dropped his turban overboard, with two

rupees in the folds of it, and the old lady his spouse had stopped

the fleet for at least an hour to cry over the misfortune. Before

breakfast we had a swim, and found ourselves only just able to make way

against the stream. Breakfasted on the river bank, under the trees,

and surrounded by rocky snow-capped mountains. Reading, scribbling,

and eating apricots brought us to about an hour before sunset, when

F. and I landed and went ahead to pick out a spot for a dining-room

for ourselves. In the search, we passed through orchards and gardens

innumerable, and finally decided upon a grove of magnificent sycamores

on the river bank, where we laid out our table just as the sun went

down. Within view was a picturesque old wooden bridge, on the mossy

tree-formed piles of which the bushes were growing, as if quite at

home, and hanging gracefully over the flowing river.

JULY 13. -- Found ourselves at sunrise at the end of our boat journey,

bathed in the river, and started for Islamabad, about half a kos off.

On the bank we found three other travellers encamped, and leaving them

fast asleep, we pushed ahead and took possession of the baraduree. This

we found a charming little place in a garden, full of ponds of sacred

fish, with old carved stones scattered about, belonging to the Hindoo

mythology. Through one corner of an upper tank a stream of crystal

water flowed in from the mountain which rose perpendicularly behind

it -- the water welling up from below in a constant and abundant

stream. Round this corner were some most grotesque stones; and here

the sacred fish were assembled in such shoals as to jostle each other

almost out of the water; but whether they were attracted by the fresh

supply of water or the sacred images covered as they were with votive

offerings of milk and rice, flowers, &c., the fish or the Brahmins

alone can tell.

Tradition states that an infidel Christian officer once killed three of

these fish, and having eaten one of them, died shortly after. Putting

their sanctity out of the question, however, the little creatures

are so tame and so numerous that few people would be inclined either

to kill or to eat them. While feeding them with bread, I could have

caught any number with my hand; and holding a piece of tough crust

under water, it was amusing to feel them tugging and hauling at it,

making occasional snaps at one's fingers in their efforts. They were

generally about half a pound in weight.

Our baraduree was built of wood, in the usual style, with latticed

windows of various designs, and having one room overhanging the

stream which ran through the centre of the house from the sacred

tanks. Directly below the place we occupied was a little waterfall,

which conversed pleasantly day and night; and by taking-up a loose

plank in the floor we could see as well as hear it. Learning that

there were some ruins in the neighbourhood, supposed to have existed

from before the birth of our Saviour, we started in the afternoon for

a place called Bowun, or more popularly Mutton, about two and a half

kos off.

The sun to-day we found very hot in this same valley of coolness,

its rays coming down on the backs of our heads in a very searching

and inquisitive manner. Along the entire path there were running

streams in every direction: and what with these and the magnificent

sycamores and walnut-trees which shaded us as we walked, our opinions

of the beauty of the country got a considerable rise. The path from

the Peer Punjal Pass by which we entered appears to be the worst

point of view from which to see the valley. From either the Peshawur

or Murree roads the effect is much finer; and from the north-east,

from which direction it is perhaps seldomer seen than any other, it

looks greener and more beautiful than from either of the other points.

At Mutton we found our three lazy friends of the morning, encamped

under the trees reading green railway-novels, and evidently very much

puzzled how to kill time. Beyond a tank teeming with sacred fishes,

there appeared nothing whatever to be seen here. Taking warning

from this, we thought it not worth while proceeding to Bamazoo,

where we were told there were caves; but, treating the fishes to a

small coin's worth of Indian maize, we retraced our steps and diverged

about a kos off the Islamabad road to Pandau. Here we were rewarded by

coming suddenly upon a magnificent old Cyclopeian ruin of grey stone,

bearing, from a little distance, the appearance rather of an ancient

Christian Church -- such as may be seen occasionally in Ireland --

than of a heathen place of worship. On entering, we found a number of

ancient carvings on the massive stone walls, but they were much worn,

and the designs to us were unintelligible. Some of them were like

the Hindoo divinities, while others were more like Christian devices,

such as cherubims, &c. Altogether, it puzzled us completely as to its

origin; but there was no doubt whatever as to its having existed from

an extremely ancient date; and from its general style, as well as the

absence of any similitude to any other place of heathen worship we have

met, we set it down in our own minds as most probably a temple to the

Sun.[10] Most of the figures, as far as their worn state would allow

one to judge, appeared to be female; and there was an entire absence

of any symbol at all resembling a cross. Many of the huge pillars had

been eaten away as if they were of wood, by the combined effects of

wind and weather; but hands had also been at work, as pieces of the

decorations and figures appeared scattered about in every direction.

Passing through the town of Islamabad on our return, we went into some

of the houses to see the people at work at the loom-made shawls. Very

hard-working and intricate business it seemed to be, and very hard

and MANCHESTERY the production looked to my eye, far inferior to the

hand-made, shawl, though not generally considered so.

I tried to negotiate a shawl with the overseer, but he assured me

that the pieces were all made separately, and were sent in to the

merchant at Sirinugger to be put together, and that he in fact had

nothing whatever to do with the sale of them.

In the evening we dined at a fashionably late hour, and were lulled

to sleep by the simple music of our domesticated waterfall.

JULY 14. -- Started at daybreak for Atchabull, three and a half kos

off towards the north-east. The baraduree we found situated in the

middle of a large reservoir, in a beautiful but half-ruined garden;

and here, the commissariat being unusually late in arriving, we

took the edge off our appetites with a quantity of small apricots,

red plums, cherries, &c.

While exploring the gardens, we found, among other remains of grandeur,

a Humaam, or hot-bath room, which was in very good preservation, and

had probably in its day been honoured by the fair presence of Noor

Jehan, with whom Atchabull was a favourite resort, and who has been,

at one time or another, over all these gardens, during her lord's

visit to the valley.

About thirty yards from the house, at the base of an almost

perpendicular hill, were the great sources of interest which the place

possesses -- viz., a number of springs of ice-cold water, bubbling up

to a height of two or three feet above the surrounding water level,

and forming three separate rivers: one in the centre which expanded

round our house, and one on either side. Around were fruit-trees of

all sorts and kinds, and from every quarter came the gurgling sound

of rushing water mingled with the singing of innumerable birds. Here

sweetly indeed do the "founts of the valley fall;" and their number

and beauty, as well as the purity of the clear and crystal streams

which they pour over the length and breadth of the land, it is which

forms one of its chief and pleasantest features, and has, no doubt,

mainly contributed to its reputation as a terrestrial paradise. To

the abundance of these streams the inhabitants are indebted for the

crops of waving rice which spread their delicately-green carpetting

over the entire valley; the purity of the waters give to the silks

the brightness of their dyes and to their shawls their fame; and from

its virtues also the love-lighted eyes are supposed to derive their

far-famed lustre. No wonder, therefore, that to the Hindoo at least,

"Cashmere is all holy land." From his sun-burnt plains and his home

by the muddy banks of his sacred Ganges, he can form but a small

conception of these cooling streams and shady pleasures. Should he

happen to read the glowing descriptions of Lalla Rookh, and be perhaps

led to reflect that --

"If woman can make the worst wilderness dear,

What a heaven she must make of Cashmere!"

He no doubt ejaculates "Wa, wa!" in admiration of the poetry of

the West, and thinks complacently of the partner of his joys as all

his fancy painted her. His highest flights of imagination, however,

probably fail to transplant him very far beyond the actual wilderness

which bounds his mortal vision, while Pudmawutee and Oonmadinee,

as here depicted by his own artistic skill, present, in all their

loveliness of form and feature, his best conceptions of ideal worth

and beauty. No wonder, therefore, that the reality of

"Those roses, the brightest that earth ever gave,

Those grottoes and gardens and fountains so clear!"

and above all of --

"Those love-lighted eyes that hang over their wave,"[11]

should shed its influence largely on his imagination, and that,

in contrast to his own dry and dusty native plains, Cashmere should

well be called the Hindoo's Paradise.

JULY 15. -- Marched at dawn for Vernagh, a distance of eight kos,

rather over a Sabbath-day's journey. Here we had to wait a considerable

time for our breakfast, the cook being an indifferent pedestrian and

the day a very hot one. The baradurree was curiously built, close to

an octagon tank, the water from which ran at a great pace through an

arch in the middle of the house.[12] The tank was supplied with 

water in great volume, but

from no apparent source, and was filled with fine fish, all sacred,

and as fat as butter, from the plentiful support they receive from the

devout among the Hindoos, not to mention the unbelieving travellers,

who also supply them for amusement. The tank itself, the natives

informed us, was bottomless, and it really appeared to be so; for

from the windows of the baradurree, some fifty feet over the water,

we could see the sides stretching back as they descended, and losing

themselves in the clear water, which looked, from the intensity of

its blue, both deep and treacherous to an unlimited extent. The water,

too, was so intensely, icily cold, that an attempt to swim across it

would have been a dangerous undertaking, and neither F. nor I could

summon courage to jump in. We, however, bathed in the stream which

ran out of the inexhaustible reservoir, and its effect we found very

similar to that of hot water, so that a little of it went a very Iong

way with us. As for the fish, they swarmed in such numbers that they

jostled each other fairly out of the water in a dense living mass,

while striving for grains of rice and bread.

This also was a favourite resort of Jehangeer and Noor Jehan; and I

found an inscription in the Persian character which, in a sentence

according to Eastern custom, fixed the date of the erection of the

building attached to the tank as A.H. 1029, or, about A.D. 1612. The

inscription runs thus: --

"The king of seven climes, the spreader of justice, Abdool, Muzuffer,

Noor-ul-deen[13] Jehangeer Badshah, son of Akbar, conqueror of kings,

on the day of the 11th year of his reign paid a visit to this fountain

of favour, and by his order this building has been completed. By

means of Jehangeer Shah, son of Akbar Shah, this building has raised

its head to the heavens."

"The 'Inventor of Wisdom' has fixed its date in this line, viz : --

'Aqsirabad o Chushma Wurnak.' "

The fountain or reservoir, and the canal, &c. seem to have been the

work of Shah Jehan, Noor Jehan's son, or were probably remodelled in

his reign. The inscription referring to them runs also in the Persian

character on a slab of copper:

"Hyan, by order of Shah Jahan, King, thanks be to God, built this

fountain and canal. From these have the country of Cashmere become

renowned, and the fountains aye as the fountains of Paradise."

"The poet Survashi Ghaib has written the date in this sentence, viz: --

'From the waters of Paradise have these fountains flowed.' "

JULY 16. -- On the road again at daybreak, with the intention of

going to a place called Kukunath, where there were more springs, and

which, from information obtained from the sepoy who accompanied us,

was on our road to Islamabad. However, like most information relative

to either direction or to distance in this country, it turned out to

be wrong, and we accordingly altered our course and made for our old

quarters. Breakfasted under a huge walnut-tree, at a village about six

kos off, and reached Islamabad about one P.M., after a very hot tramp

of ten kos, through groves of sycamore and walnuts, and hundreds and

hundreds of acres of rice-fields, immersed in water, and tenanted by

whole armies of croaking frogs. The people were principally employed

in weeding their rice-crops, standing up to their knees in mud and

water, and grubbing about, with their heads in a position admirably

adapted to give anybody but a native, apoplexy in such a hot sun.

JULY 17. -- In the middle of the night we were awoke by a tremendous

uproar in our wooden habitation, as if some one was crashing about the

boards and panels with a big stick; immediately afterwards something

jumped upon my bed, and with a whisk and a rush, clattered through the

room to F.'s side, over the table, and back again to my quarter. Half

asleep and half awake, I hit out energetically, without encountering

anything of our uninvited guest; and the faithful Rajoo coming in

with a light, I found F. brandishing a stick valiantly in the air,

everything knocked about the room; an earthenware vessel of milk spilt

upon the floor, a tumbler broken, and a plate of biscuits on the table

with marks of teeth in them. This latter discovery was quite a relief

to my mind, for the visitation had a most diabolic savour about it,

and we were just beginning to fancy that there was a slight smell of

sulphur. However, the milk and the biscuits being such innocent food,

we were enabled to fancy that the intruder might have been no worse

than a wild cat, which had frightened itself by breaking, our tumbler,

and had eventually jumped through the window and made its escape. This

interpretation, however satisfactory to ourselves, was apparently

not so to the Q.M.G., and to his dying day he will probably remain

rather doubtful of the kind of company we kept that night.

At sunrise I paid another visit to the ruins of Pandau, or Martund,

and sketched it from the north-east; a view which took in the only

columns of any perfection that remained standing.

Islamabad being, as its name implies, the "abode of Mahomedanism,"

I had set the kotwal to work to procure me a good copy of the Koran.

On returning, however, I found that he had collected together a

bundle of the common editions printed in the Arabic alone, without

interlineations. He assured me, however, that they were rare and

valuable specimens; and I was amused by the old gentleman reading out

a passage in a sonorous voice, following each word with his finger,

and astonishing the bystanders by the display of his erudition; but

at the same time holding the precious volume upside down, and thus

failing in impressing at least one of his audience. In the evening

we started again for Sirinugger.

JULY 18. -- Found ourselves, according to sailing directions, at

anchor this morning, or in other words, tied to an upright stick,

at Wentipore, on the left bank of the river, where there were some

old ruins to be seen.

The architecture we found very similar to the Pandau temple. One

column, however, was left standing, which was more perfect than any

we had seen before.

The ruins consisted of a large quadrangle, with cloisters all round,

and the remains of a temple in the centre; both these were completely

decayed, but the enormous stones piled together in grand confusion

showed that the buildings had been of considerable extent.[14] The

corner stones here alone pointed out the position of the cloisters,

which at Pandau had been in very fair preservation.

About fifty yards from the entrance there were three columns of

different form, sunk in the ground, their capitals just reaching a

little below the surface, and connected by trefoil arches, all in

pretty good preservation.

A few hundred yards down the river we found another large ruin, but

in a more dilapidated state than either of the others. In both, the

designs carved in the huge stones were something similar in pattern

-- viz. a female figure, with what appeared to be a long strip of

drapery passing round either arm and descending to the ancles. It

was impossible to decipher the exact device, but the breast and head,

in most instances, were plainly distinguishable.

About three kos from Sirinugger, we stopped at another very extensive

site of Cyclopeian ruins, at a place called Pandreton. Here we found

the most perfect building of any we had met; and for a considerable

distance around were traces of what must have been, in ages past,

a city of some extent.

Among other interesting remains, there was the base of a colossal

figure standing in the midst of a field of cut corn. Only from the

knees down remained, but this block alone was over seven feet high;

the toes were mutilated a good deal, but the legs were in wonderful

preservation. There was also, about half a, mile off, an enormous

base of a column, resting on its side, at the summit of a little

eminence, where a, considerable amount of mechanical power must have

been required to place it. Its diameter was about six feet; and at

some distance we found the remainder of the column, split into three

pieces. It was about twelve feet long, the lower part polygon, the

upper round, and the top a cone similar in form to the stones dedicated

to Mahadeo in the temples of the Hindoos. The building which alone

remained in at all a perfect state was situated in a sort of pond or

tank of slimy green, and was quite inaccessible without a boat.[15]

Sending on the cooking apparatus and servants, I remained with the

smaller boat; and with a rug and a supply of biscuits, set to work to

sketch the ruins. The operation, however, was not performed without

very great difficulty. Innumerable mosquitoes made the spot their

home, and at critical moments they persisted in settling themselves

in the most uncomfortable positions. The ants, too, took a fancy to

my paint-box, and even endeavoured to carry off some of the colours;

so that between the two I was soon fairly put to flight, and obliged

to evacuate the territory.

On consulting my Hindoo authority, Rajoo, on the subject of Cyclopeian

ruins, he tells me that they were built, not by man but by "the gods,"

in the Sut Jug, or golden age, an epoch which existed no less than

2,165,000 years ago, or thereabouts!

This view of the matter increases the interest of the ruins immensely,

besides being very complimentary to the style of building practised by

"the gods" in that age.

The Hindoo ages are four, and we are believed to be at present

in the last of the four, of which 5,000 years have been already

accomplished. The names and duration are as follows, viz : -- Sut Jug,

1,728,000 years; Treth Jug, 1,296,000 years; Duapur Jug, 864,000 years;

and Kul Jug. 432,000 years. This makes the present age of the world

to be about 3,893,000 years!

About five P. M. I reached Sirinugger, and found the advanced guard in

possession of one of the bungalows. Spent the night in a succession

of skirmishes with innumerable fleas, who appeared to have been out

of society for a considerable time previous to our arrival. Up to

this moment I fancied that I knew something of the natural history

of the race, having studied them and fought with them and slept with

them in their happiest hunting grounds. Greek fleas, Albanian fleas,

Tartar fleas, Russian fleas, I had combated on their own soil, but

never before was I put to such utter confusion. All night long the

enemy poured in upon me, and several times during the action was I

forced to leave the field and recruit my shattered forces outside

in the moonlight. As day dawned, however, I fell upon the foe at a

certain advantage, and managed at last to get a few hours of sleep.

JULY 19. -- Made an expedition to the small lake to see a building

which we were informed was built by the Puree, or fairies -- the Peri

of poetical licence.

After a sharp struggle up a steep hill, under a hot sun, we reached

the building; but, to all appearance, the fairies had less to do

with the edifice than a race of very indifferent engineers. It was

evidently the remains of a hill fort, built of stones and mortar,

and with nothing wonderful in its construction whatever. It was

tenanted by buffaloes and a few natives; and having seen specimens

of both before, we took our departure again rather in a bad humour

with both the fairies and their partisans.

In the plain below we found the remains of Cyclopeian ruins in an

enormous block of stone, part of a column.

JULY 22. -- Started this evening in the direction of the water-lake

in further search of ancient ruins.

JULY 23. -- Found ourselves at daybreak among the mosquitoes in a

little stream about two kos from Patrun. After breakfasting, we started

for the vicinity of the ruins. As usual, in the villages we passed

through, we found traces of cut stone doing duty as washing-stones,

or corners of walls, &c; and at Patrun we found

rather a fine old ruined temple, something similar in style to those

towards Islamabad.[16] It was surrounded at some distance by trees,

which had tended apparently to preserve the building, for the stone

carvings were clearer and less decayed by time than any others we

had seen. Being caught here in a heavy rain, we had a scamper for

our boats, and after a wet journey, reached Sirinugger about eight P.M.

JULY 26. -- Finding ourselves rather tired of Sirinugger, and with

no other books than Hindostanee to beguile the time, we resolved

upon an expedition across the mountains into the regions of Little

Thibet. Began preparations by hiring twelve coolies, at thirteen

shillings each per mensem, and a mate or head man to look after

them. Increased our stock of ducks to twelve, and otherwise added to

our necessary stores, and completed the arrangements for a move.

To-day a number of arrivals and departures took place, and the whole

settlement was in a state of excitement and confusion. Boatmen swarmed

about in rival application for employment, while all the rascals in

the place seemed to have assembled together for the occasion: those

who had bills, wanting to get them paid; and those who were either

lucky or unfortunate enough to have none, wanting to open them as

soon as possible with the new comers. What with these and pistol

practice and rifle shooting from upper casements across the river,

in order to expend spare ammunition, the European quarter was a very

Babel all day long, and we were not sorry to escape the turmoil and

get under weigh to new scenes as soon as possible.

About dusk we embarked in two large boats with Rajoo, the cook, and the

bhistie, the other servants remaining behind, much to their delight,

to take charge of spare baggage, &c. left in the bungalow. One of

the Maharajah's army also accompanied us, a rough-and-ready-looking

sepoy irregular, whose duty it was to ferret out supplies and coolies,

&c. during our march, and at the same time, perhaps, to keep a watch

over our own movements and desperate designs. Passed the night under

gauze fortifications, the disappointed mosquitoes buzzing about

outside in myriads, and striving hard to take a fond farewell of

their much-loved foreign guests.

By strange sounds from the direction of my companion's quarters,

as if of smacking of hands, &c., I was led to infer that they had

partially succeeded in bidding him good-bye. I, however, luckily

escaped without receiving even as much as a deputation from the enemy,

and slept in happy unconsciousness of their vicinity.

Little Thibet.

JULY 27. -- About six o'clock this morning we found ourselves at

anchor under the mountains at the northern extremity of the lake,

and at the mouth of a dashing river of ice-cold water, into which we

lost no time in plunging. On mustering our forces after breakfast,

we found that our possessions required fourteen coolies for their

transport. Our own immediate effects took four, viz. bedding two,

guns one, and clothes, &c. one; the kitchen required four more;

tent one, charpoys one, servants' reserve supply of food one,

brandy, one, plank for table and tent poles one, and last though

not least, the twelve ducks took up the services of the fourteenth

all to themselves. The rest of our train consisted of the faithful

Rajoo, who came entirely at his own request to see a new country,

the two servants, the sepoy, and the coolie's mate, who was to act as

guide, carry small matters, and make himself generally useful. After

a most affectionate parting with our boatmen, Messrs. Suttarah,

Ramzan, Guffard, and Co., we started on our new travels at about ten

A.M. under a broiling sun. After several halts under shady chestnuts,

groves of mulberry, &c., and passing by a gentle ascent through a

lovely country, we came to our first encamping ground, at Kungur, and

pitched our tent under a chestnut grove, considerably hot and tired by

our first march, after all the ease and comparative idleness we had of

late been enjoying in the valley. Here we saw the first of the system

of extortion which goes on among the government authorities and the

people; for after the paymaster to the forces had settled with the

seven coolies who were not in our permanent employ, not being able

to take all as we had originally intended, they assembled round us,

and complained most dolefully of the smallness of their pay. The

sepoy, who appeared a most pugnacious customer, cuffed some of them,

and made desperate flourishes at others with a big stick, and seemed

altogether so anxious to prevent, as he said, the "cherishers of

the poor," from being inconvenienced by the "scum of the earth,"

that we suspected something wrong, and on inquiring, ascertained,

that out of the amount due to the seven, viz. one rupee five annas,

or about two shillings and eightpence, the organ of government had

actually stopped eight annas, or one shilling. The mistake we soon

rectified, much to the delight of the "scum of the earth," -- who had

certainly earned their three annas, or fourpence halfpenny per man,

by carrying our impedimenta eight kos under a hot sun, -- and equally

to the disgust of "the organ" who handed over the difference with

a very bad grace indeed, and was rather out of tune for the rest of

the day. Our hearts being expanded by this administration of justice,

we proceeded to a further act of charity, and emancipated our twelve

ducks from their basket, into a temporary pond constructed for them

by the bhistie, where they dabbled about to their hearts' content,

and soon forgot the sorrows of the road in a repast of meal and rice.

JULY 28. -- Marched at six A.M., and after proceeding about a kos

found that we were in for a regular wetting. Our path lay through a

beautifully wooded ravine with precipitous mountain peaks appearing

ahead in every direction: these, however, were soon shrouded in

impenetrable mist, which gradually gathered in about us, and proceeded

to inspect us in a most searching and uncomfortable way.

The road however, though beautiful, was by no means a good one, and it

was in many places difficult work to keep one's feet in the wet slush,

over wooden bridges, or along the side of a dashing torrent which kept

us company, and which seemed to be labouring just now under an unusual

degree of temporary excitement, in consequence of having had too

much to drink. We had arranged to breakfast on the road, but the rain

made us push on, and on reaching the vicinity of our halting-place,

we stopped to inspect the condition of our garments, and to satisfy

ourselves as to our future prospects in the matter of dry changes of

raiment. On opening our small reserve, of which the mate had charge,

I found that sad havoc had been made in the precious articles we had

been so hopefully depending upon for comfort and consolation at the

end of our soaking march. The last efforts of our generally rather

useless dhobie had been brought to bear upon our present equipment. The

massive brass smoothing-iron and its owner had alike done their best

to start us creditably in life with the only clean linen we were

likely to behold for many weeks, and now nothing remained of the

first instalment of these spotless results, but a wringing mass of

wet and dirty linen. The sun, however, coming out opportunely to our

assistance, we made the best of our misfortune by spreading out our

small wardrobe to the greatest advantage in its rays. Our guide, who

by the way appeared to know nothing whatever about the path, proceeded

to unroll his turban, and divesting himself of his other garments,

took to waving his entire drapery to and fro in the breeze, with a

view to getting rid of the superfluous moisture. Leaving him to this

little amusement, in which he looked like a forlorn and shipwrecked

mariner making signals of distress, I repaired to a torrent close by,

and after a satisfactory bathe in the cold snow water, and very nearly

losing the whole of my personal property in the rushing stream, donned

the few dry articles I was possessed of, and proceeded to pick out

our camping ground. We fixed it among the scattered cottages of the

little village of Gundisursing, and while waiting for the main body,

stayed our appetites with the few apricots we managed to discover on

the already rather closely picked trees.

Got breakfast at two P.M. just as the rain began to come down upon us

again. The supplies procurable here were flour, milk, fowls, and eggs;

butter, however, was not forthcoming.

JULY 29. -- Marched early after enjoying a drier night than I had

anticipated from the look of the evening and the fine-drawn condition

of our tent.

Our road continued up a beautifully wooded and watered valley, and

reaching a gorge in the mountains, about five kos from our start, we

halted at a log hut a little way beyond a wooden settlement dignified

by the name of Gugenigiera.

Here we had a bathe in the rushing snow torrent, a curious combination

of pain and pleasure, but the latter considerably predominating,

particularly when it was all over.

After breakfast we sent the coolies on again, intending to halt three

kos off; however, on reaching the ground, they unanimously requested

to be allowed to go on to the village of Soonamurg, the halting-place

shown on our route. It was altogether considerably over a Sabbath-day's

journey, being nine kos of a bad mountain-path; but as no supplies

whatever were procurable short of it, we held on our course. After

leaving our halt, the path led us close to the torrent's edge, and

the gorge narrowing very much, we were completely towered over in our

march by gigantic peaks of rock, blocks of which had come down from

their high estate at some remote period of their existence, and now

occupied equally prominent though humbler positions in the torrent's

bed below. Occasionally they presented themselves in our actual path,

and at one place we found that our course was blocked completely, the

inaccessible mountain side descending precipitously to the torrent,

and leaving us no option but to take to the water, roaring and boiling

as it was. Our guide went first with great deliberation and groping

his way with a stick, and after an ineffectual attempt to scale the

rock above, F. and I also unwillingly followed his example. The water

was piercingly cold as it swept against us, and the pain was so great

that we were glad to blunder over as quickly as possible, without

taking very much trouble about picking our steps. After passing

this in safety we came suddenly upon a band of hill-men with their

loads, from Thibet; they were the first natives we had encountered,

and wild and weird-looking savages they appeared as they congregated

about us, gibbering to each other in their astonishment at our sudden

appearance. With them, was a strange-looking bullock, with long black

mane and tail, and hind quarters like a horse, which they apparently

used for carrying their merchandize. To-day we passed the first snow

since leaving the valley, although in the distance there was plenty

of it to be seen.

Nothing could exceed the beauty of the view as we approached our

intended halting-place. Having crossed the torrent by a wooden bridge,

the mountains we had been winding through showed out in all their

grandeur, while above us, inaccesible peaks, with sharp and fanciful

projections, nestled their mighty heads among the fleecy clouds, which

hung about after the recent rains. In advance again, other mountain

ranges rose behind each other, clothed on their southern faces with

delicate grass up to the point where the snow lay lightly on their

rocky top-knots and hid itself among the clouds. From the bridge,

a rustic structure of entire pine-trees, we passed through an upper

valley carpeted with the brightest soft green pasturage, until we

reached the usual little cluster of dilapidated wooden tenements

which constitute a village in these mountains. This was Soonamurg,

and crossing another bridge, formed of two single giant pines, we

came to a halt and pitched our camp close to a huge bank of snow on

the river's brink. What with our halt, and the badness of the path,

we did not arrive until five P.M., and as the sun set, the spray from

our snowy neighbour began to wrap its chilling influence about us,

and we were glad enough to invest ourselves in some thick cashmere

wraps of native manufacture, which we had hitherto considered merely

as standbyes in case of extraordinary cold on mountain tops.

According to general report, however, we only reach THE FOOT OF THE

MOUNTAINS to-morrow. This sounds well, considering that we have been

ascending steadily for three days, and have left huge avalanches of

snow beneath us, not to mention the mountains which we traversed on the

Peer Punjal side before even entering the Valley of Cashmere at all.

At Soonamurg, where we had been warned that there were no supplies,

we found large herds of sheep and goats. The, people, however,

were not at all inclined to sell them, and we had some trouble in

getting hold of a couple of fine fat sheep from them, for which we

paid, what was here considered a high price, viz. two rupees, or four

shillings each. We also enlisted the temporary services of two hairy,

horny goats, which are to accompany us for the next three marches as

portable dairies, no supplies being procurable on the road. Butter and

milk are both forthcoming here in abundance, and occasionally rice is

to be got. Penetrated with the freshness of the mountain air and the

freedom of our vagabond life, we came unanimously to the conclusion

that we had made a wise exchange from the FAR NIENTE DOLCES of

Sirinugger, and passed a vote of general confidence in the expedition.

JULY 30. -- The wind this morning blew bitterly cold over the snow

and into our tent, rendering the operation of turning out rather more

unpopular than usual.

Got off, however, about six, and had a fine bracing march over a

grassy valley among the mountains. After about four kos, the sun began

again to assert his supremacy, and, in conjunction with the cold of

the morning, rather took liberties with our faces and hands. About

half-way we came upon the merry ring of axes among the trees, and

found a party of natives constructing a log-house for the benefit of

travellers towards Ladak. Pitched our camp in a wild spot at the foot

of the mountains, bathed in the snow water, and had a sheep killed

for breakfast.

One of the live stock died this morning: an unfortunate hen had been

sat upon by the ducks, and the result was asphyxia, and consignment

to the torrent.

JULY 31. -- Finished up the month by a difficult march of four and

twenty miles, encamping at Pandras about eight P.M. and no longer at

the FOOT of the mountains. Immediately on leaving our halting-place we

commenced the ascent of a steep glacier, and for upwards of four miles

our path lay entirely over the snow: so dense and accumulated was it,

that even when the sun came out and burned fiercely into our faces

and hands, there was no impression whatever made on its icy surface.

The glacier was surrounded on all sides by peaks of perpetual snow,

while parts of it were of such ancient date that, ingrained as it was

with bits of stick and stones &c., it bore quite the appearance of

rock. The path was in some places so indistinct, that on one occasion

I found myself far ahead of the rest of the party, and approximating

to the clouds instead of to the direction of Ladak. About five kos

on our journey we halted to let the kitchen come up, and had our

breakfast on the snow in the company of a select party of marmots. The

little creatures appeared to live in great peace and seclusion here,

for they let us up, in their ignorance of fire-arms, to within thirty

yards of them before scuttling into their habitations. They were all

dressed in blackish brown suits of long thick fur, and considering

that they live in snow for at least eight months out of twelve,

they appeared not the least too warmly clothed. As we went by they

used to come out and sit up on their hind legs, with their fore

paws hanging helplessly over their paunches, while, with a shrill

discordant cry, they bid us good-morning and then hurried back to

their houses again. Not having our rifles handy they escaped scot

free, otherwise we might have borrowed a coat from one of them as a

reminiscence of the country. After another kos or two we began to get

clear of the glacier; but occasionally we came upon enormous masses of

snow jammed up on either side of the torrent, the action of the water

having worn away the centre. The path gradually led us through rocky

passes, over torrents spanned by snow among the magnificent mountain

range; and although the march was, rather long for a hill country,

we found no fault with it until about the last three kos, when it

was getting late in the day, and although fast becoming hungry,

we saw no immediate prospect of getting anything to eat.

The last few kos we find invariably longer than their fellows;

one kos by DESCRIPTION, at this stage of the proceedings, being

generally equal to two in reality. Asking a native, how far we are

from a halting-place, is invariably answered in one of two ways:

either THOREE DOOR, not very far, or NUZDEEK, close. THOREE DOOR means

generally about four miles, while NUZDEEK may be translated five at

least. A kos too, which ought to be from one and a half to two miles,

means here anything between one mile and seven. Delaying as much as

possible, to let our servants up, we reached Pandras at last, and

found all the inhabitants turned out to see our arrival; they were

dressed in long woollen coats and sheepskins, and looked something

between Russians and Tartars, with a strong flavour of the Esquimaux,

as depicted by Polar voyagers. As the sun went down it became bitterly

cold, and we found the natives even, shuddering under the influences

of the snowy wind, which, setting in from the mountains, appeared to

blow from all points of the compass at one and the same time. What

the village of Pandras must be in mid-winter it is hard to imagine,

so covered with snow as the mountains around it are even in August,

and so bleak and so barren the valley in which it is situated.

In spite of the cold, we astonished the entire swaddled population

by taking off our clothes, and bathing in a little crystal stream

close by: two operations, in all probability, which they themselves

had never perpetrated within the memory of the oldest inhabitant,

This feat accomplished, we were much astonished by the arrival of a

RARA AVIS, in the shape of a British traveller, from the direction

of Ladak. He turned out to be an officer of the Government survey,

now being carried on in the mountains, and we took the opportunity

of deriving from him all the information we could, relative to the

prospect before us. He strongly recommended us to go to the monastery

of Hemis, beyond Ladak, and also to the Lakes, but the latter would

appear to be beyond the limits of our time. The only natives we had met

during our unusually long march to-day, were four hairy-looking savages

from the interior, from whom, after much difficulty, I succeeded

in purchasing an aboriginal tobacco-pouch, flint, and steel, all

combined in one, paying for the same about three times its actual and

local value, viz. two rupees. They were dressed in long woollen coats,

with thick bands of stuff rolled round their waists; and all four had

bunches of yellow flowers stuck in their caps, and pipes, knives,

tobacco-pouches, &c. hung round their girdles. Their shoes were of

the Esquimaux pattern, the soles sheepskin, coming up all round the

front of the foot, where they were joined by woollen continuations --

shoes, socks, and leggings, being thus conveniently amalgamated into

one article of apparel.

AUGUST 1. -- On the road a little later than usual, all hands being

tired after yesterday's exertions. The path to-day lay among huge

boulders of rock, which had come down as specimens from the mountains

above, and after a short march of five kos, we reached Dras, a little

assemblage of flat-roofed houses, with a mud fort about half a mile

from it, in the valley. This was built with four bastions and a ditch

scarped with paving-stones, which surrounded it on all sides except

one, where it was naturally defended by the torrent. On the road we

passed a curious bridge, built entirely of rope manufactured from

twigs of trees. The cables thus formed were swung across the torrent,

from piles of loose stones, in a most scientific way, though not one

calculated to inspire confidence in any traveller with weak nerves who

might have to trust himself to its support. It appeared, nevertheless,

a most serviceable structure, and was decidedly picturesque. At Dras

we were able to get all supplies except fowls.

AUGUST 2. -- Having a long and up-hill march before us, we were up and

dressed by moonlight. Outside the village, we came upon two curious

old stones, standing about six feet high, upright, and carved in the

way we had already seen at the ruins of Pandau and elsewhere. These

stones were of irregular form, and carved on three sides, and the

designs, though much worn, were distinctly traceable. They represented,

apparently, a male and female figure, standing about five feet high,

and surrounded by three smaller figures each. Like all the other

sculptured figures we had seen, they were innocent of clothes, with

the exception of the rope, or very scant drapery, which ran across

their ancles and up either side to the shoulders.

Leaving these, we passed through a wild and rugged valley among the

mountains, cultivated in patches, and watered by numerous little

sparkling crystal streams. At short intervals, there were little

settlements of mud huts, built, Tartar fashion, one on top of another,

and peopled by a few miserable-looking natives, who appeared, in

their woollen rags, to be cold, even in the middle of this summer's

day. The few travellers we met during our march were flat nosed,

heavy-looking creatures, with Chinese skull-caps and pig-tails,

and were employed in conveying salt to Cashmere, packed in bags of

woven hair, and laden on cows and asses as weird and strange-looking

as their owners. About five kos off, we called a halt for breakfast,

and reached Tusgam about four P.M.

Here we found a few ARBOR VITAE, and other shrubs, in bad health,

the first of the tree species we had encountered since ascending

the glacier.

AUGUST 3. -- Struck our camp at sunrise, and crossing the torrent,

which still accompanied us, descended the Pass by a slight

decline. During the day we passed through numerous gorges, studded

with giant masses of rock, and bounded on all sides by rugged and

inhospitable mountains. We only saw one village, and that some way

off the road -- Kurroo, the guide called it. Breakfasted under an

overhanging rock on the mountain side, just where our path was, hemmed

in by the torrent, and were disturbed during our repast by several

volleys of stones which rattled down over us from above. They were set

free by the melting of some large masses of snow, which, being covered

with sticks and dirt, we had not noticed when we chose our breakfast

parlour so close to their uncomfortable proximity. To-day we met

more salt-carrying parties -- uncouth-looking savages in pig-tails,

speaking a language that not one of our party could understand. We

also encountered an original-looking gold-washing association of

five, who were wending their way towards the snow with their wooden

implements. They were all also weighted with bags of grain, to keep

them alive during their search. Their labour consists in sifting

the fine sand which comes down in the snow-torrents, charged with

minute particles of gold; and the proceeds, from the appearance of

"the trade," would not seem to be very great. They say it amounts

only to a few annas a day, but would probably not allow to the full

amount for fear of being taxed.

At our breakfast-halt we saw the most primitive specimen of a smoking

apparatus probably ever invented. It consisted of a dab of mud stuck

in a hole of a tree, about five feet from the ground. Two small sticks,

inserted in this from above and below and then withdrawn, had evidently

served to form the smoke passage; while the bowl as evidently had

been fashioned by the simple impression of a Thibetian thumb, the

whole forming, for the use of needy travellers, as permanent and

satisfactory a public pipe as could well have been devised. It had

just been in requisition before we passed, for a small quantity of

newly-burned tobacco lay in the bowl; and a fresh patch of clay on

the mouthpiece had probably been added, either in the way of general

repairs or by some extra-fastidious traveller, who preferred having

a private mouthpiece of his own. After rather a severe march through

rocky mountain gorges, we reached Chungun, a little oasis of about

five acres of standing barley, with three or four flat-roofed houses

dotted about it in the usual Tartar style of architecture. It also

boasted four poplar-trees, standing in a stiff and reserved little

row, evidently in proud consciousness of their family importance

among such rugged, treeless, iron mountains.

It was altogether a refreshing little spot for a halt, after the

savage scenery we had marched through; and pitching our camp in it,

we were not long in introducing ourselves to the little brawling

stream of clear cold water to which it owed its existence.

AUGUST 4. -- Started this morning in a mountain mist. Just outside

the village we passed the scene of the fall of an avalanche, which

gave one some faint idea of the enormous forces occasionally at work

among these mountains. It had taken a small village in its path, and

over the place where it had stood we now took our way, among a perfect

chaos of masses of rock, and uptorn earth, trees, &c. The whole ground

was torn and rent, as by the eruption of volcanoes or the explosion

of enormous magazines of powder. Passing this, our path continued

to descend the gorge until about two kos from Chungun, when another

torrent came down to join its forces to the one we were accompanying;

and leaving our old companion to roar its way down to join the Indus,

we proceeded up the valley in the society of our new friend. Passing a

series of little villages nestled among the rugged rocks, we crossed

the stream by a tree bridge and causeway, to the Fort of Kurgil,

where, after a long consultation, we breakfasted. The differences

of opinion between the guide and the rest of the natives as to the

distance of a village ahead, where milk and supplies were forthcoming,

were so wide, some saying three kos, others six, &c., that we finally

determined upon getting some breakfast before deciding the true

distance for ourselves. The village Hundas was another most perfect

little oasis. It was only about five or six acres in extent, under

the frowning mountain, and was terraced and planted in the neatest

and most economical way imaginable. The fields were beautifully clean,

and were quaintly adorned in many instances by huge blocks of rock from

the mountain above, bigger considerably than the whole of the houses

of the village put together. Leaving Kurgil, we made a sharp ascent,

and crossed a plateau bounded by some extremely curious formations

of rock and sandstone.

The mountains appeared to have been reared on end and cut with a knife,

as if for the especial benefit of geologists in general, although the

hues of their many-coloured strata were calculated to attract even

the most ungeological mind by their brightness. Descending from this

plateau, we came to a pass dotted with three or four little villages,

wooded with poplars, and adorned with a few shrubs of different

kinds. Here every available inch of ground which the grudging rocks

bestowed was cultivated, although all around, the mud-built native huts

were broken down and deserted, in such numbers as to give the idea

of an Irish settlement whose inhabitants had transplanted themselves

to America. At the last of these little villages, called Pushkoom,

we pitched our camp, the retainers taking a fancy to the place from

the promise it gave of abundant supplies.

AUGUST 5. -- Made our first day's halt, and enjoyed it considerably

-- not the least of its advantages being the immunity it gave us

from being torn out of bed at grey hours in the morning. The rest

of the force also appreciated the day of rest, and made themselves

comfortable after their fashion under our grove of trees.

In the afternoon I ascended the mountain opposite to reconnoitre and

inspect the curious formation of strata, which formed the principal

feature of the place.

The ascent I found at first to be over a soft crumbling small stone,

resembling ashes, but of various colours, and in distinctly-marked

strata. These were generally of pinkish red and grey, and from them

in large masses, rose enormous blocks of concrete, in all manner

of forms and shapes, some like towers and fortifications, and

others standing out boldly by themselves, worn by the weather into

holes and ridges. After a considerably difficult ascent, from the

crumbling nature of the stones, I reached the summit of the mountain,

and climbing a concrete monster which capped it, had a magnificent

survey of the mountain ranges and country around. In every direction

the eye rested on snowy summits, and the wind from them fell coolly

and refreshingly after the toil of ascent under a hot sun.

Returning through the village, I found the natives hard at work

collecting their crops of wheat and barley, and stowing them away,

generally upon the flat tops of their houses. They seemed altogether

a peaceful, primitive race; but, although their ground appears in

first-rate order, they themselves are uncultivated and dirty in the

extreme. The ladies, I am sorry to say, are even rather worse in this

matter than the gentlemen. The female costume consists generally of

robes of sheep and goat skins thrown across the shoulders; while

a long tail of twisted worsted plaits, looking like a collection

of old-fashioned bell-ropes, forms the chief decoration. This is

attached to the back hair, and hangs down quite to the heels, where it

terminates in a large tuft, with tassels and divers balls of worsted

attached to it. On a hill overhanging the village were the remains

of a mud fort, which had been pulled down by Gulab Singh in one of

his excursions to Thibet, with a view to bringing the inhabitants

to a proper sense of their position, and enforcing the payment of

his tribute.

The number of battered and deserted huts about the village is accounted

for by the erratic habits of the people, which induce them never to

stay long in one set of houses, but to flit from one side of the valley

and from one settlement to another as the fancy strikes them. That the

large increase of the flea population among such a race, however, may

have something to do with their restlessness, seems more than probable.

Except when impressed for government employ, they seldom leave the

vicinity of their villages, and one old gentleman told me he had

never been even as far as a place called Lotzum, which is only two kos

off! The religion seems to be a mixture of Buddhism and Mahomedanism --

the latter on the decrease as we get farther into the country.

The dress assimilates to the Chinese -- pig-tails and little skull-caps

being the order of the day. We obtained here good supplies of cow's

milk, butter, &c., and among other things, some peas. These enabled

us to celebrate our Sunday's dinner by a "duck and green peas," and

never since the first invention of ducks could a similar luxury have

been so thoroughly appreciated.

AUGUST 6. -- Started early again, and marched five kos, through the

little half-deserted settlement of Lotzum to the village of Shergol,

where we halted for breakfast. Here we found ourselves fairly among

the Buddhists, and saw an entirely new description of monuments

connected with religion, from anything we had yet encountered. The

most striking objects were a series of tomb-like buildings, without

entrances, and adorned on all sides by the most hideous effigies,

rudely executed in coloured mud.[17]

Some of these were men, depicted in bright red on a yellow ground, with

horrible staring countenances; others women, adorned with numberless

necklaces and other ornaments; besides these, there were peacocks,

griffins with human arms, deer, &c., and all in the most flaring

colours and the very rudest designs.

In the perpendicular face of a rock beyond was a very curious

monastery, or abode of the Lamas. It was built completely IN the rock,

and was reached by a natural cavity on the face of the stone.

Jutting out from the upper part, balconies had been erected overhanging

the precipice, and these were decorated with red copings, spotted with

white. From the fact of only one of our party knowing the language,

it was difficult to ascertain from the natives the history of this

curious abode, but they gave us to understand that it was the home

of their Lamas, or spiritual preceptors. Here we met another of

the race of wandering Englishmen, who was wending his way back to

the valley. He was returning from a shooting tour, was all alone,

and appeared to have had very hard work indeed of it, if his face

and hands and generally dilapidated appearance might taken as a

criterion. Not being quite in such light marching order ourselves,

we were able to ask him to breakfast, and from his ready acceptance

and the entire justice he did to our offer, I don't think he could

have had anything to eat for a week.

He appeared to be a thorough sportsman, and had bagged several head of

large game, which he showed us. They were principally a kind of wild

sheep with enormous heads and horns, each of his trophies being almost

a coolie load in itself. Leaving Shergol, we entered a curious valley

with rocks of concrete standing out like towers and fortifications,

and on the summits of these again, airy-looking habitations with

red streaks adorning them, and entered, as that at Shergol, by holes

in the face of the rock. These were, or had been, the abodes of the

Lamas; numbers of them now however, as well as the mud settlements

at their feet, appeared in ruins, and gave no sign of habitation,

beyond having about them a number of little flags stuck on long poles,

which fluttered about in the breeze. According to the account of our

interpreter, which had to pass from Thibetian into Hindostanee before

it could clothe itself in English, the cause of this dilapidation

was the state of wealth and ambition at which the Lamas had arrived,

and the consequent interposition of Gulab Singh to take down their

pride and ease them of a little of their wealth, both of which he

accomplished in the style to which he was so partial, by slaughtering

some hundreds of them and reducing their airy habitations to ruins.

At a place called Moulwee we came to a curious block of massive rock

standing close beside the path, with one of the red-topped houses

built into its side. Above this was a colossal figure with four arms,

rudely cut on the face of the rock, and above all was perched an

implement, something after the fashion of a Mrs. Gamp's umbrella of

large proportions, together with sundry sticks and rags, which seem

to be the common style of religious decoration in these parts.

The figure was about eighteen feet high, the lower extremities being

hidden behind the building at the base of the rock. It resembled in

some measure the sculptures occasionally seen among Hindoo temples,

but no one appeared to know anything whatever of its origin or history.

Close to this there were an immense number of stones collected

together, bearing inscriptions in two different characters, one of

which resembled slightly the Devanagree or Sanscrit. Seeing such a

profusion about, I appropriated one which happened to be conveniently

small, and carried it off in my pocket.

The sun being intensely powerful, we called a halt at a village

named Waka, perched among the rocks, where we found a rattletrap of a

baradurree, which saved us the trouble of pitching our tents. Opposite

to us was a curiously worn mass of concrete mountain, which might

easily have been mistaken for artificial lines of fortification,

had not the scale been so large as to preclude the possibility of any

but giants or fairies having been the engineers. At the head of the

valley there was a fine snow-covered mountain, which helped to keep

us cool in an otherwise excessively hot position. The cook having

been rather overcome by his exertions to-day, we got our dinner at

the fashionable hour of nine P.M.

AUGUST 7. -- Starting from Waka at cock-crow, we marched up a steep

ascent, through a bleak-looking range of hills, to Khurboo, where we

bivouacked under a tree and got breakfast about noon.

Afterwards, I examined more minutely the inscription on the

stones, which, as we advanced into the country, appeared to

increase considerably in number. They consisted in almost every

case of the same word, containing five letters in one character

and six in the other, though I occasionally there were additional

letters, and sometimes, though very rarely, a stone with a different

inscription altogether. After a good deal of difficulty I succeeded

in unearthing a Lama from the village to help me in my researches,

and a strange-looking dignitary of the Church he turned out to be when

he did make his appearance. He was a bloated and fat old gentleman,

dressed in a yellowish red garment of no particular shape, and looked

altogether more like a moving bundle of red rags than anything else,

human or divine.

Finding that nothing was required of him more expensive than

information, he appeared delighted to show off his learning, and by

means of the sepoy, who was the only one of our party acquainted with

both Thibetan and Hindoostanee, I ascertained that the words carved

upon the stones were "Um mani panee," and meant, as far as I could

make out, "the Supreme Being." As the old gentleman repeated the

mystic syllables, he bobbed and scraped towards a strange-looking

monument close by, in an abject, deprecatory way, as if in extreme

awe of its presence.[18]

On inquiring the origin of this new structure, which was built of

stones and plaster, and decorated with red ochre, all we could get out

of him was a fresh string of "Um mani panees," and a further series

of moppings and mowings, accompanied by a sagacious expression of

his fat countenance, indicative of the most entire satisfaction at

the clearness of his explanations, and a sense of his own importance

as a Lama and an expositor of the doctrines of Buddh.

He also explained the only other inscription which I had seen;

and according to the interpretation of the sepoy, it ran thus: --

" As God can do so none other can."[19]

Not another piece of information could I elicit relative to the

religion beyond the continual "Um mani panee, Um mani panee!" which

our friend seemed never tired of mumbling; and although the sepoy was,

I believe, considerably more adapted for the extraction of reluctant

supplies of food for our kitchen than for eliciting such information

on the subject of theology as I was in search of, the real cause of

failure was more to be attributed to the extreme ignorance of the

particular pillar of the Church that we had got hold of, than to any

little literary failings of the interpreter. Such were the quantities

of the inscribed stones about this place, that in one long wall I

estimated there must have been upwards of 3,000, and this in a country

where inhabitants of any sort are few and far between, and where none

appear who seem at all capable of executing such inscriptions.

AUGUST 8. -- Having suffered a good deal yesterday from the heat

of the sun, we started this morning by a bright moonlight, at about

half-past four A.M.

Entering the Pass of Fotoola, we ascended gradually for some five kos,

and reached a considerable elevation, with a good deal of snow lying

about on the mountains. A peak on the right was 19,000 feet above

the sea level, and few of those in our immediate vicinity were under

17,000 feet. From the summit of this pass we descended about three

kos to Lamieroo, without passing a single hut or village on the entire

road. The only natives we encountered were a party of three from Ladak,

on their way to Cashmere, with a couple of fine native dogs, as a

present from the Thanadar to some of his visitors. The pedestrians one

generally meets now are old ladies, carrying conical baskets filled

with sulphur or saltpetre, in the direction of Cashmere, and so shy

are they, that on beholding "the white face" they drop their loads as

if shot, and scuttle away among the mountains, so that, if inclined,

we could seize upon the Maharajah's munitions of war and carry them

off without difficulty. On reaching the vicinity of Lamieroo, the

inscribed stones became more frequent than ever. They were placed

generally upon long broad walls, the tops of which sloped slightly

outwards, like the roof of a house. Supplies of uncut stones were also

in many instances collected together in their vicinity, as if for the

benefit of any pedestrian who might feel inclined to carve out his

future happiness by adding to the collection. Lamieroo, as its name

would seem to imply, appears to have been a headquarters of the Lamas

and their religion. It contains a curious monastery, or Lamaserai,

built upon the extreme top ledge of a precipice of concrete stone,

and at its base (some hundred feet below) the habitations which

constitute the village are also perched on pinnacles of rock, and

scattered about, often in the most unlikely spots imaginable. Entering

the bason formed by the valley in which this curious settlement is

situated, one opens suddenly by an ascending turn upon the whole

scene, and anything more startlingly picturesque it would be hard to

conceive. As the view appears, the first objects presented are a host

of little monument-like buildings, which line the path and are dotted

about in groups of from three to twelve or fourteen together. They

stand about seven feet high, and, as far as we could make out from

the natives, are erected over the defunct Lamas and other saints of

the Buddhist religion, after which they become sacred in the eyes

of the living, and are referred to with scrapings and bowings and

"Um mani panees" innumerable. In the monastery we found twenty Lamas

at present domiciled -- fat, comfortable-looking gentlemen  they all

were, dressed in orange-yellow garments, and not a bit cleaner than the

rest of the natives, nor looking by any means more learned. Mounting

the side of the bill, and passing under one of the red-ring pillared

monuments, we entered the precincts of the monastery, and threading

some very steep and dark passages in the interior of the rock, were

received by a deputation of Lamas, with the salutation of "Joo, Joo!"

We were then ushered with great ceremony into their temple, much to the

awe and consternation of our guides, who apparently expected to see

us as much overcome by the sanctity of the place as they themselves

were. The temple we found a small square room with a gallery round

it, from which were suspended dingy-looking Chinese banners, flowers,

&c., and at one end were about twenty idols of various designs, seated

in a row staring straight before them, and covered with offerings of

Indian corn, yellow flowers, butter, &c. They were for the most part

dressed in Chinese fashion, and in the dusky light had certainly a

queer weird-looking appearance about them, which was quite enough

to overawe our village guide; not being accustomed to such saintly

society, he could hardly raise his eyes or speak above his breath,

but stood with hands joined together and in a supplicating posture,

enough to melt the heart of even the very ugliest of idols. The service

(by particular desire) began by three of the most unctuous of the

Lamas squatting down on some planked spaces before the divinities,

and raising a not unmusical chaunt, accompanying themselves at the same

time with a pair of cymbals, while two large double-sided tom-toms or

drums gradually insinuated themselves into the melody. These were each

fixed on one long leg and were beaten with a curved stick, muffled

at the end. The performance of the cymbals was particularly good,

and the changes of time they introduced formed the chief feature

of the music, and was rather pleasing than otherwise. The service

as it drew to a close, was joined by a duett upon two enormous brass

instruments like speaking-trumpets grown out of all decent proportions;

they were about five feet long, and were placed on the ground during

the performance, and as two of the fattest of the Lamas operated and

nearly suffocated themselves in their desperate exertions, the result

was the most diabolical uproar that ever could have been produced

since the first invention of music.

Not being able to trust the sepoy in such a delicate undertaking, I was

unable to get any information from the Lamas on religious subjects;

and all signs and suggestive pointings, &c. were immediately and

invariably answered by "Um mani panee," so that we left about as wise

as we entered. The most interesting object in the place was a library

of Thibetian books. It consisted of an upright frame divided into

square compartments, each with a word cut deeply into the wood over

it, and containing the volumes. These were merely long narrow sheets,

collected between two boards, also carved on the outside with a name

similar to the one on the shelf. The characters were beautifully

formed, and I tried to purchase a small volume, if a thing about two

feet long could be called so, but without effect. There were about

thirty of these books in the place, ponderous tomes, carefully covered

up, and little read, to judge by the quantity of dust collected on

them. They read us, however, a small portion of one, in a drawling,

sonorous tone, and with no very great facility.

These books, together with a number of rudely-printed papers, of the

nature of tracts, one of which I carried away, containing some of the

characters similar to that on the inscribed stones, appear to have been

printed at Lassa,[20] the capital of Thibet Proper, and from there,

the head-quarters of the religion in these parts, all the musical

instruments and other paraphernalia belonging to the temples are

also sent. One exception, however, I discovered; this was an empty

brandy-bottle, bearing a magnificent coloured label, which certainly

could not have been issued from the Grand Lama's religious stores. To

the English eye, or rather nose, it had but little of the odour of

sanctity about it; but here it evidently held a high position, and

was prominently placed among the temporal possessions of "the Gods."

The women here, and those we met on the road during the last two

marches, wore a curious head-dress, differing from anything of the kind

we had before seen. It consisted of a broad band extending from the

forehead to the waist behind, and studded thickly with large coarse

turquoises. These generally decrease in size from the forehead, where

there is a larger turquoise than the others, down to the waist, and

where the hair ends, it is joined into a long worsted tail terminating

at the heels. Some of these bands must be of considerable value,

but the proprietors, although otherwise in complete rags, will not

part with them for any consideration. One lady whom I accosted on

the subject, thought I was going to murder her, and took to her

heels forthwith. In general, however, the fair sex here carefully

hide both their charms and their turquoises behind the nearest rock

or the most convenient cover that presents itself, and vanish like

phantoms whenever they discern a white man in the distance.

The cooking department being delayed by the ascent, we got no breakfast

to-day until one o'clock, unless a drink of milk and a biscuit on

arrival could be called by courtesy a breakfast.

AUGUST 9. -- Descended from Lamieroo through a precipitous pass

for about three kos and a half, to Kulchee, a tidy little village

of fifteen huts, situated in an oasis of apricot and walnut-trees,

the first we had encountered since leaving Cashmere.

The people here seemed particularly simple and happy among their waving

corn-fields and wild fruit-trees, and they were most anxious to supply

us with apricots and milk, and whatever they could produce. The Gopa,

or head-man of the village, could speak a little Hindostanee, besides

being able to read and write his own language in two characters, and

as he seemed unusually sharp and intelligent, I was very glad to have

a chat with him while waiting for the commissariat to come up. The

character most common on the inscribed stones, and one of those now in

actual use, he told me was Romeeque; the other, the square character

on the stones, is obsolete, and is called Lantza;[21] while a third

character, which was the one he was most conversant with, but which

did not appear upon any of the stones, he called Tyeeque.

His explanation of the stones was, that at the last day a certain

recording angel, whom he called Khurjidal, would pass through the

land, and inspecting these mounds of inscribed stones, would write

down the names of all those who had contributed to the heap. What the

inscription was he seemed unable clearly to explain, but believed it to

refer in some manner to the Supreme Being. Whatever it was, all those

who had contributed their share towards its dissemination, by adding

stones to the mounds, were certain of future rewards, while those

who had omitted to do so were as equally certain of punishment.[22]

This explanation of the difficulty caused me some qualms of conscience

on account of the future prospects of the unfortunate writer whose

particular stone I had appropriated; but for fear the Gopa himself

might be the sufferer, I thought it better not to confide my emotions

to him, but to leave the case in the hands of Khurjidal.

Regarding the state of the people here, he told me that each house

paid a tax of seven rupees per annum to the Maharajah. This, for

the entire village, would only give 105 rupees per annum towards the

enrichment of the Treasury.

The Lamas, who have no ground of their own, appear to be a further

burden on the population. They are supplied gratuitously with food,

and appear to be somewhat similar to the Hindoo Fukeer, devoting

themselves to religion and remaining unmarried. They, however, are

not so violent in their opinions, and are more conversable, to say

nothing of being decidedly cleaner.

We breakfasted under the spreading walnuts, among an audience composed

of the entire village, who seemed much edified and amused by our

novel manners and customs. Some of our English possessions took their

fancy immensely. A cut-glass lantern and the label of a bottle of

cherry-brandy in particular, seemed to them the very essence of the

rare and curious, and they seemed never tired of admiring them. After

breakfast we again took the road, and marched three kos to another

little wooded settlement, called Nurila, situated, like Kulchee,

upon the Indus, or, as it is here called, the Attock. The noisy,

dirty torrent, as it here appears, however, gives little promise of

becoming, as it does in after life, one of the largest of the stately

Indian rivers.

AUGUST 10. -- From Nurila we travelled along the Indus bank to Suspul,

a distance of seven kos or thereabouts, stopping for breakfast at

a village whose entire population consisted of one woman! The river

being shut in by high and rocky mountains, our path took several most

abrupt turns and startling ascents and descents in its meanderings, and

proved altogether the worst for coolies to travel that we had as yet

encountered. The greater part of our march, too, was under a burning

sun, whose rays the rocks on either side of us reflected in anything

but an agreeable way, giving thereby a considerable addition of colour

to our already well-bronzed countenances. Near Suspul we had to take

to the water, as a mass of overhanging rock jutted into the river and

completely obstructed the path; and here one of our coolies, stumbling,

dropped his load into the torrent. It was a particularly precious part

of our expeditionary stores, containing, among other things, the small

stock of brandy which was to last us back to Sirinugger. However,

on inspecting the contents of the basket, the precious liquid was

safe and sound, and the only damage was the conversion, PRO TEM. of

our stock of best lump sugar into MOIST. Suspul we found situated in

a half-moon shaped break of fertility among the barren mountains. The

snow was within half an hour's climb, while at the same time the sun

shone with such power as to blister our faces, and even to affect the

black part of the expedition, rendered somewhat tender, no doubt, by

the unusual mixture of heat and cold to which they had already been

exposed. We encamped here under a grove of apricot and apple-trees,

which resulted in the production of an apple-dumpling for dinner.

AUGUST 11. -- Leaving Suspul, we ascended considerably to the village

of Buzgo, another of the cloud-built little settlements so dear to

the Lamas. The tenements were most picturesquely pitched upon the

extreme tips of almost perpendicular rocks, and to many of them

access seemed apparently impossible. Leaving this, we entered upon

a desert of shifting sand and stones, in the midst of which there

was an unusually long wall of the inscribed stones, one of which,

although containing the same inscription, was of a different pattern

from any I had hitherto discovered.[23]

The next oasis was Egnemo, formed, like all the others, by the

existence of numerous little springs of crystal water, which enabled

the waving corn to raise its golden head, and the apricot and the

apple-tree to flourish in refreshing contrast to the general barrenness

and sterility which reigned around.

After a grilling march, we enjoyed the delights of a bathe under a

waterfall of clear cold water, and got our breakfast by eleven o'clock.

To-day, some of our brigade of coolies begin to complain of sickness,

which sounds alarming, not only to themselves, but to us, for none

others are now procurable. This results from their making too free

with unripe apricots, and drinking too many gallons of cold water on

the road; also, however, from the fact of my having doctored the first

patient who had presented himself, with a couple of pills and some

tea -- a piece of generosity which drove all the others nearly mad

with jealousy and envy, and set them thinking how they also might be

participators in similar luxuries. The pills, although in this instance

selected promiscuously from a varied stock, were the great objects of

desire, and such was their confidence in the virtuous properties of

the remedy, that the character of the particular bolus that fell to

their share was to them a matter of no consequence whatever. So great

a rage is there for medicine among people who have never known the

luxury of paying for it, that even the blind and deformed continually

applied to us for it on the road.

AUGUST 12. -- Halted to-day, and gave all hands a day of rest, which

was rather required after our incessant marching. In the afternoon

we explored the village, and enjoyed a magnificent sunset behind the

ranges of distant snowy mountains. The crops here were more backward

than those met hitherto, although the power of the sun was rather

on the increase than otherwise, as we advanced. Some of the fields

were occupied by beans, peas, and wheat, all growing like a happy

family together.

AUGUST 13. -- Made an unusually early start, this morning, for

our final march into Ladak. The first part of the journey was up a

precipitous ascent, and over shifting gravel, which was very trying

to our already well-worn boots; and it was a relief when, on arriving

at the summit, we found a long and gradual descent before us, with

an entirely new panorama of snow-clad mountains extending away

towards Ladak.

In the distance, close to the river Indus, which here branched out into

several small and separate streams, there was a high mound, topped with

buildings, which we made for, under the full impression that it was

our journey's end: however, on reaching it, and turning confidently

round the corner, we found nothing but a deserted-looking building,

surrounded by an immense number of the monuments which the natives

call Permessur; while, stretched out at our feet, and forming, as it

were, the bottom of a large basin among the mountains, was a dreary

desert of glaring, burning sand. The place altogether looked like a

city of the dead: not a soul appeared in sight, except one solitary

old woman, who was slowly traversing the weary waste of sands, and

all around was still and silent as the grave. In order to gain some

intelligence of our whereabouts, I was obliged to give chase to this

only inhabitant, and from her I discovered, that to reach Ladak --

a green-looking speck which she pointed out in the far distance --

we had to cross the desert sands, and still hold on our course for

several miles. The sun was by this time high in the heavens, and we

had already come a longish march, so that by the time I had traversed

the arid plain under the blinding glare, and reached the green fields

beyond, it was nearly twelve o'clock, and I had had nearly enough of

the journey. It was, however, a couple of miles farther to the grove

of trees, where, under very indifferent shade, travellers are in the

habit of halting to pitch their camps; and on reaching this, I was

glad to throw myself down on the grass, and, after a drink of milk,

and the slight refreshment afforded by a leathery chupattie, to go

to sleep on the grass, until the arrival of our servants and baggage

should give us a prospect of breakfast. These made their appearance

about two P.M., and all hands requiring a little rest from the toils

of the road, we pitched our camp under the trees, and set ourselves

to the enjoyment of a few days' halt in the city of Ladak.

Ladak and the Monastery of Hemis.

The first event after being settled in our new quarters was the

arrival of a sheep, presented to us by the Kardar, or chief dignitary

of the town, as a mark of affection and distinction. This, according

to the strict letter of the law, we should have refused to accept;

twenty days marching, however, while it had sharpened our appetites,

had rather diminished our stores. Sheep were not to be got every day,

and an ill-looking animal which we had succeeded in purchasing at

Egnemo, had been overcome by the heat of the weather and taken itself

off on the road. Other supplies, also, were a good deal weakened by

successive attacks; potatoes had been extinct many days, and the stock

of ducks, which formed our main stay in case of future difficulties,

was rapidly succumbing to the knife of the assassin. Under these

circumstances we felt that we would be in no way justified in hurting

the Kardar's feelings at the expense of our own, by refusing his

present, and believing ourselves to be in this instance fit subjects

for out-door relief, the new arrival was soon swinging about in the

breeze, a welcome addition to our unfurnished larder.

Having thus ended the struggle between our duty and our feelings,

we turned our attention to the exploration of the surrounding country.

The town of Ladak, although in a commercial point of view by no means

a flourishing-looking settlement, was, as far as picturesqueness was

concerned, everything that could be desired. It was built in the style

so popular throughout the country -- on pinnacles of rock, and such

out of the way positions as seemed, of all others, the least adapted

for building purposes -- immediately outside the town, occupying a

sort of bason among the surrounding mountains, and was what might

fairly be called a "city of the dead." It was of considerable extent,

and was formed of groups of the numerous monumental buildings which

I have described, and which in a country where the habitations of

the living appear so few in proportion to those of the dead, form so

curious and remarkable a feature. These tombs, although by no means

of very modern date, bear traces, in many instances, of the more

recently departed of the Buddhist population. Burnt fragments of

bone, hair, &c., were scattered about in various directions, while,

collected together in one corner, were the little mounds of mud with

a rise at one extremity, where the sculptured turban ought to rest,

which denoted the last resting-place of the Moslem faithful. Meeting

with the Kardar's chupprassie, I entered into conversation with

him about the manners and customs of the Thibetians, a subject on

which he seemed to have very hazy ideas indeed, although not on that

account at all the less inclined to impart them to one more ignorant

than himself. His opinion of the inscribed stones was that they were

all written by the Lamas, but he failed completely in explaining

for what reason they were collected together. He was aware, however,

of Khurjidal, who was to inspect them at the last day. The tomb-like

erections, he said, were considered in the light of gods; the bones and

ashes of departed Lamas having been pounded up together and deposited

beneath them, together with such valuables as turquoises, Pushmeena,

rupees, &c. This fact would perhaps account for their being so often

in a ruined state -- Gulab Singh having, probably, taken a look at

their foundations in search of such valuable pickings. The reason my

informant gave me for the unwillingness of the people, however poor,

to sell their superabundant ornaments, was that they regarded them as

sacred, and held them as their own property during their lifetime only;

on decease the jewels reverted to the possessions of the Church. The

Lamas are provided, by the custom of dedicating in every family of two

or more, one to that office; should there be a number of girls in a

family, all those that do not marry become nuns, and adopt the male

attire of red and yellow. The nuns, however, seem to be by no means

kept in confinement; they work in the fields, and one of them enlisted

with us as a coolie, and brought her load into camp before any of her

male coadjutors. Among other curious information my friend told me,

that the Thibetians by no means consider that each man is entitled

to the luxury of a wife all to himself; but that a family of four

or five brothers frequently have but one between them, and that the

system is productive of no ill-feeling whatever among the different

members.[24] He also pointed out a fact which I had not before noticed,

viz., that the Thibetians invariably pass to the right hand of these

piles of stones and other monuments, but for what reason he was

unable to inform me.[25] Having finished his stock of information,

which I received thank-fully in default of better, he told me, with

delightful coolness, that it was the proper thing for me to give him

a bottle of brandy for the Kardar, and that it would be necessary to

send also a corkscrew with the bottle, to enable him to get at it! The

impudence of the request was almost worth the bottle, but brandy

was too scarce and precious a commodity to justify us in pleasing

the Kardar, so that all I could do was politely to decline sending

the corkscrew or the bottle either. In the afternoon we explored

the Bazaar, where we found abundance of dogs, dirt, and idlers,

but little else. What little there was in the way of merchandise

the proprietors seemed utterly indifferent about disposing of, and

after visiting a few shops we went away in disgust. The people were

a mixture of Cashmeeries, Chinese, Tartars, Bengalees, and Indians of

all sorts and sects, and more idle, good-for-nothing looking scoundrels

I never laid eyes on. One most amusing group of Mahomedan exquisites

reminded one forcibly of PUNCH'S Noah's ark costumes and Bond Street

specimens of fashion. They were dressed in exaggerated turbans and

long white Chogas, or loose coats, which reached down to their heels;

and, as arm in arm, with gentle swagger, they sauntered through the

bazaar, they had, in addition to their heavy swellishness, an air of

Eastern listlessness to which the most exquisite of their European

prototypes could never hope to attain. On reaching our camp we found

another traveller had added his little canvas to the scene; it was

one of the Government Survey, whom the natives invariably designate

by the comprehensive title of "the Compass Wallahs." Wallah is,

in Hindostanee, as nearly as possible an equivalent to "fellow,"

and in explaining the character of this particular order of Wallah,

the accent is always strong on the second syllable of the compass. The

Compass Wallah in question we found quite a wild man of the mountains;

his face, from changes of heat and cold and long exposure, was burnt

and blistered into all sorts of colours, and, to make his appearance

more generally striking, he wore as head-dress, a flyaway, puggery,

or turban of blue cotton, of the most voluminous dimensions and

wonderful construction imaginable. He gave us an amusing account

of his operations among the clouds; how he always rode a cow! and

was so much alone that he at times began to doubt the existence of

other white men in creation besides himself; how he was SEA sick at

first, and unable to sleep at night from the great rarification of the

atmosphere, &c. He joined us during dinner, just in time for a triumph

of a plum pudding which our cook had unexpectedly produced, and his

heart was so gladdened and expanded by either the suet, the raisins,

or the brandy, that he chatted away until the dissipated mountain

hour of eleven o'clock, when we sent him off to bed, much pleased

with his entertainment, and again reassured, at least for a time,

of the continued existence, not only of white men in the world, but

of their plum puddings. Among other statistics he gave us the height

of Ladak, as 11,000 feet, and that of the recently discovered monarch

of the mountains, now set at rest as belonging to the Himalayan range,

as being 29,003 feet above the level of the sea.[26]

AUGUST 15. -- Employed all the morning in endeavouring to procure

supplies of tea, and after unearthing a queer-looking package

containing seven pounds and a half, we differed about the price,

the proprietor demanding twenty-four shillings, or about twice its

local value.

AUGUST 16. -- There being no tidings of the arrival of expected

caravans, we marched for the monastery of Hemis, crossing the Indus

immediately after leaving Ladak, and following it up towards its

source. Outside the town we passed a mound of the inscribed stones,

which must have been nearly a quarter of a mile in length, and probably

contained as many as 30,000. The left bank of the river, which

thus formed our path, was a continuation of detached huts, forming

no regular villages, and affording very little shade or apparent

prospect of shelter for man or beast. The right bank, however, was

studded with picturesque-looking little villages, built generally on

rocky summits, and surrounded by tombs and Mani panees, to an extent

almost to rival the towns themselves in size and importance. About

nine miles on the road we halted for breakfast, on the confines of a

desert of smooth stones, from which the heat ascended like vapour,

and made our eye-balls ache again. There was no shade in sight,

however, and milk was here forthcoming, so we made the best of a bad

situation, and, after our repast, lost no time in getting again under

weigh. After a hot tramp over a perfect desert, we reached the wooded

little village of Chunga, where, as it was getting late, we called

a halt and pitched our camp. All hands being tired by their march,

we got our dinner at nine o'clock.

AUGUST 17. -- Started early for Hemis. From the formation of the

mountains in which it is situated, the entrance to the village opens

upon the traveller suddenly and as if by magic; and as we tramped

this morning along the parched and sandy desert, welcome indeed was

the unexpected vision of trees and rushing water which the sharp turn

presented to our astonished gaze.

The entrance to the gorge in which the monastery is situated was, as

usual, quite covered with Mani panees and walls of inscribed stones;

one of the former was studded with human skulls, and otherwise

ornamented, in a way that proved the vicinity of some stronghold of

Lama talent, though not perhaps of the very highest order.

The monastery we found situated in a beautifully-wooded valley,

thickly planted, and having a dashing little torrent foaming through

the centre.

It was built as usual, on the very face of the rock, and towering

above it was an airy fort, ensconced among a number of crows'-nest

habitations, perched about apparently with more regard to effect

than comfort.

While waiting for the kitchen to come up, we inspected the monastery,

and were waited upon by half-a-dozen Lamas, who showed us through the

various temples of the gods. Originally containing some two hundred

Lamas, its numbers had now dwindled down, by their account, to fifteen

or sixteen. We, however, saw actually more than that number ourselves

while wandering through the building.

They owned to having treasure in the monastery to the amount of three

lakhs of rupees ([pound sterling]30,000), but of this we saw small

signs during our inspection.

Some of the divinities were, however, provided with vestments of

cloth of gold, and were seated upon thrones, studded with would-be

precious stones. Others were accommodated with large silver bowls,

placed on pedestals, filled to the brim with "ghee," or rancid butter,

and unless blest with inordinate appetites, these, from their enormous

size, might fairly last them all till doomsday. We were altogether

conducted through four temples, each inhabited by a number of Chinese

figures, seated in state, with offerings of corn, flour, rice and

ghee, &c. before them, and these were generally served in valuable

cups of china, and precious metals. Hanging from the ceiling and

the walls around were scrolls, decorated in the Chinese fashion,

with figures of tightly-robed, narrow-eyed ladies and gentlemen,

scattered about with the usual perspective results.

Some of these scrolls were decorated with scenes which it would take

hours to decipher and appreciate. One, in particular, of the last day,

was covered with innumerable little figures, and appeared well worthy

of a close inspection.

The bad people might here be seen, falling into the hands of some of

the most disrespectable looking monsters I have ever beheld; while

the good were sitting up in a bunch, looking on at the dreadful scene,

in a satisfied and undisturbed way, beautiful to behold.

The most curious things in the place, however, were the praying wheels,

which I here saw for the first time. They were little wooden drums,

covered round the sides with leather, and fitted vertically in niches

in the walls.[27] A spindle running through the centre, enabled them

to revolve at the slightest push. They were generally in rows of

eight and ten, and well thumbed and worn they looked, but others of

larger dimensions were placed by themselves, decorated with the words

"Um mani panee," in the Lanza character, all round the barrel.

In the vicinity of the monasteries were various small temples,

probably chapels of ease, rudely decorated with grotesque figures,

in red and yellow, and having queer-looking structures fastened on

the top of them, generally a trident, with tufts of hair attached,

or strips of coloured calico, horns of animals, and other rude devices.

In one place we came upon a praying-wheel, turned by water, but I was

unable to ascertain whether the benefit accrued to the water, or to

the possessor of the stream, or to the public generally. Sometimes

the people carry portable wheels, and one old gentleman we met was

provided with a huge brass one, with a wooden handle. It was suspended

from his neck, in company with a collection of square leather charms,

fastened by a string to his coat.

On my asking him what the structure meant, he immediately begun to

set it in motion, and piously ejaculating "Um mani panee," passed on

without another word, but in evident pity for my benighted spiritual

condition.

Among other curious sights, we saw one of the Lamas sitting at a

chapel door, having, before him seven little brass pots. In each

of these there was a letter of the words "Um mani panee," and the

pots being filled with water, he was employed in strewing each with

a few grains of corn from a heap at his side, keeping up at the

same time a loud mournful chant, and swaying himself to and fro,

in time with the music. To have inquired the meaning of this would

only have again resulted in the comprehensive information contained

in "Um mani panee," so we rested in our ignorance, and passed on,

much to the relief of the chaunter. After going all through this

curious monastery, we repaired to our tents, which had arrived in

the interim, and which we found pitched pleasantly among the trees,

within a few yards of the torrent. After a bathe and breakfast, we

came unanimously to the conclusion that the water was so cold, and

the air so cool and refreshing, we could not do better than halt for

a couple of days, under the protection of the Church, before again

taking the road on our homeward route.

AUGUST 18. -- Out early for a day's stalk over the mountains, after

deer, or anything there might be forthcoming. One of the coolies being

a "shikaree," or what they call in Ireland a "sportsman," I took him

with me, and with another to carry some breakfast, off we started at

about five A.M. The ascent at first was so abrupt, that, although in

pretty good walking condition by this time, I found myself halting very

frequently to admire the prospect. Having attained the greatest height

actually attainable, we spied quietly grazing, about half a mile off,

some half dozen little animals, which my "sportsman" declared to be

Ibex, and down Aye went again, best pace, with a view to making a

circumbendibus, to get behind them. With a view to accomplish this,

we had to pass across some very difficult ground, and at last came to

a smooth face of rock, with nothing whatever about it to hold on by,

and, moreover, an overhanging ledge, which fairly seemed to bar all

further progress.

The coolie, however, whose every toe was as useful to him as

a finger, managed to scramble up; and not to be outdone, I also

attained some height, when, holding on fly-fashion, and clinging to

the rock with my fingers and grass shoes, suddenly the pole which

partly supported me slipped away, and my whole attention had to be

directed to again reaching the ground in as soft and comfortable a

manner as possible. In this I succeeded beyond my expectations, and,

a second attempt being more successful, finally reached the top. On

attaining our hardly-earned post of vantage, however, there was no

sign of our friends, but, suddenly, on the mountain below us a herd

of about five-and-twenty more appeared to our delighted view. They

were standing gazing up at us in astonishment, and for some moments

we remained fixed and motionless, hoping to be taken for the stones we

were habited in imitation of. Then, crouching down and crawling along

as if on velvet, down we went again, and after another long and trying

stalk, over broken ground formed apparently of small slates placed

edgeways, and crumbling rocks, whose slightest fall would have been

destruction to our plans, we attained a rock about two hundred yards

from the herd, and paused for breath once more. They were lying about

sunning themselves, with an outlying sentinel posted here and there

on either side of them on the look-out; and seeing an eligible spot

some fifty yards nearer, we stole along to reach it. We were not,

however, destined to take this unfair advantage of the enemy. Just

as we had half crossed the distance, an ill-fated, abominable little

fragment of rock suddenly broke off, and at its first bound away went

the herd like lightning over the precipitous rocks, and with a little

chirrupping noise like sparrows, were in a few seconds well out of

range of bullets. As the natives express it, "they became wind,"

and we were left behind our rock, looking, after all our toils, to

say the least of it, extremely foolish. A shot which I took at some

250 yards was more to relieve ourselves by making a noise than with

any hopes of bringing down one of the light-heeled little creatures,

for their bounding powers put all correctness of aim at that range

out of the question.

The next part of the programme was breakfast, but alas! there were

no signs in any direction of the bearer of our supplies, and I now

recollected that the rock which had so puzzled us would be quite

inaccessible to the coolie and his precious charge, without which

he himself was useless. All we could do was to ascend a high peak of

mountain, in hopes that the breakfast would ascend another, and that

we could then exchange signals of distress and obtain relief. However,

after reaching our look-out station, which took us some climbing,

we could discern nothing around us bearing the slightest resemblance

to a coolie, and our hopes began to descend below zero.

It was now about twelve o'clock, and taking advantage of the produce

of the country, I made a light breakfast off two stalks of rhubarb,

and tying a handkerchief to the top of my pole as a signal, lay down

in the very minute portion of shade procurable under a midday sun,

and indulged in the pleasures of imagination, conjured up by absent

chicken legs and cold chupatties. After a long wait, I came to the

conclusion that the two pieces of rhubarb were entirely insufficient

to continue the day's work upon, so I reluctantly gave the order to

retreat upon our camp, and turned from thoughts of breakfast to those

of dinner. My grass shoes were by this time completely worn out by the

pointed rocks and flinty ground we had traversed, and my spare ones

were in the society of the cold chicken and the chupatties, so that

I was soon walking in nothing but socks. Before long, this portion of

my property was also run through, and I was finally obliged to borrow

the sportsman's pointed slippers, in which I managed to get along over

the ruggedest piece of creation I ever traversed, and reached our camp

about three P.M. Tired, hungry, and burnt by the sun, a bathe in the

rushing torrent and a visit to the kitchen were soon accomplished,

and I then learnt that the coolie, being stopped by the rock, had

come back at once, and, having been again immediately packed off by

F. to search for us, had not been since heard of.

AUGUST 19. -- Found the Q.M.G. to-day laid up with fever and influenza,

and administered some quinine pills to him, besides ordering a steed

to carry him on to Ladak to-morrow.

Explored the Lama's habitations and temples, and saw some very curious

carvings and paintings on stones, some of them not altogether in the

Church order of design.

Some of the ceilings were beautifully decorated, and must have cost

a good deal of money in their day, but they were now rapidly falling

into decay.

During the day we had a good opportunity of seeing the Lamas go through

their private devotions. The operation appeared simple enough. Each

as he entered the court and passed along the rows of wheels, by

simply stretching out his arm set the whole of them in motion,

at the same time repeating "Um mani panee" in a dolorous voice to

himself. Coming then to the large wheel with painted characters,

he gave it an extra energetic spin, which sufficed to keep it in

motion for several minutes, and having thus expended his energies

for the time being, he again disappeared as he had come. One of the

smaller wheels I found in a state of neglect and dilapidation as

to its outer case, and thinking it a good opportunity to discover

something as to the meaning of the system in general and of "Um mani

panee" in particular, I quietly abstracted the inner contents, in

full assurance that it would never be missed; that the wheel itself

would go round as merrily as ever, and that, as far as the prayers

were concerned, there were still sufficient left behind, considering

the reduced state of the monasteries, to satisfy the conscience even

of the devoutest of Lamas.[28]

As I passed out, however, a huge black dog, which was chained up in the

yard, seemed, by the rabid manner in which he made feints at my legs,

to be quite aware of what I had done, and he snapped and howled, and

strained and tore at his chain as I went by, just as if he detected

the holy bundle sticking out of my pocket, and thoroughly understood

my consequent guilty appearance. The principal designs upon the stones

here -- some of which, in colour, were in wonderful preservation --

appear to be cross-legged effigies of Buddha, seated in that state

of entire abstraction from all passions and desires, which seem to

be the end and object of Buddhists' aspirations.

A certain rotundity of form, however, and appearance of

COMFORTABLENESS, rather tend to suggest that the pleasures of the

table at least have not quite been renounced among the other pomps

and vanities of Buddhist life.

AUGUST 20. -- Started for Ladak again, nominally at some desperately

early hour of the morning, but in reality at about half-past five,

the sun not shining upon our position until late, in consequence of

our proximity to the mountains. Mr. Rajoo being still indisposed,

and, in his own belief, dying, we mounted him upon a hill horse,

where he looked like a fly on a dromedary. Halted for breakfast half

way, and had a hot wearisome march afterwards into Ladak, the sun

being intensely powerful, and the greater part of the journey over

a glaring desert of shifting sand and loose stones. So deep was this

in some places, that it was with difficulty we could drag our steps

along. The latter part seemed perfectly interminable, and not until

four o'clock, burnt, tired, and parched with thirst, did we reach our

old halting place. Since our departure, the Thanadar had changed his

fancy as to brandy, and now requested a bottle of vinegar. This we

promised in the event of his procuring us some tea, our stock being

low, and none other procurable without government assistance. By this

means we obtained a decorated bundle of pale-looking tea for thirteen

rupees, or 1L. 6S. The bundle contained 71/2 lbs., so that the price

was heavy enough, considering our proximity to the land of tea.

My shoe-leather being in a doubtful state, I invested in a pair of the

sheepskin Chino-Esquimaux ones of local manufacture, but soon found

that the old saw of "nothing like leather" was quite a fallacy, when

the leather savoured so strongly of mutton as that composing my new

boots did. In the morning they were absent, and it was not until after

much search that the mutilated remains of one foot was discovered,

gnawed and sucked out of all semblance to Blucher, Wellington,

or any other known order of shoe or boot, while the other appeared

irretrievably to have gone to the dogs. Our lantern here was also

carried off by some of the canine race, and left beautifully cleaned,

but unbroken, not far from our tent door.

Finding that there was no news of caravans, or probability of their

arriving, we determined upon striking our camp, and retiring again

towards Cashmere, having attained the furthermost point which the

limits of our leave allowed.

A Retreat to the Valley.

AUGUST 21. -- Left Ladak about four P.M. and halted for the night on

the confines of the desert-plain at Pitok. On the road I succeeded --

much to my astonishment -- in getting a necklace of bits of amber,

and a turquoise, from an old lady, whom I found at her cottage-door

weaving goat's-hair cloth. She took two rupees for the family jewels,

and, when the bargain was struck, seemed in a desperate fright at

what she had done, looking about in every direction to see that no

avaricious old Lama was near, nor any of her gossiping acquaintance,

who would be likely to tell THE MINISTER of what she had done.

For the first time during our travels, the retainers turned a little

rusty to-day. The scarcity of the tobacco supply and dislike to quit

the amusements of city life were the chief causes, and the consequence

was that the cook, who was sent off at two o'clock to have dinner

ready for us on arrival, made his appearance about sunset and gave us

dinner at nine P.M. The Q.M.G. and the Sipahee sauntered in afterwards

at their leisure, having left the coolies and ourselves to pitch the

camp how and where we liked. Smarting under these indignities, and

knowing that the Sipahee was the head and front of the offending, I,

in a weak moment, committed an assault upon that ferocious warrior. The

consequence was that the representative of "The Army," feeling its

dignity insulted in the face of the populace, immediately set to work

upon the unfortunate natives, and assaulted even the gopa, or kotwal,

of the village; and so severely was one of the coolies handled, that

I was obliged to interfere in the cause of peace, and not without

difficulty succeeded in stopping the stone I had thus so unwittingly

set rolling.

This same Sipahee rejoiced in the name of Dilour Khan, which might be

loosely translated the "Invincible One," and such we always called

him. He was a fierce-looking soldier beyond measure to look at,

and very terrible among the miserable Thibetians, making desperate

onslaughts upon the unfortunate boors, to obtain supplies fit, as he

said, for the Grandees, the Cherishers of the Poor, the Protection

of the World, &c.

The style of head-dress generally worn among the natives facilitated

his efforts immensely in these matters; for, throwing aloft his

sword, and relinquishing his umbrella, he used to seize suddenly

upon a pig-tail, and, handling it after the fashion of a bell-rope,

proceed to insist upon the production of impossible mutton and other

delicacies in a way that was almost always successful, even under

circumstances apparently the most hopeless.

He had a sharp, detonating way, too, of delivering a volley of

Thibetian, at the same time curling up his fierce-looking moustaches

and whiskers, and gesticulating with both arms, which always had

a great effect, the more so that the expletives were generally in

Hindostanee, and not being understood, were all the more terrible to

the unfortunate pig-tails on that account.

AUGUST 22. -- Left for Egnemo, over our old ground, which, wanting

the attraction of novelty, appeared to us rather longer than on

first acquaintance. The sun, too, was more powerful than ever and

the deep soft sand more trying, so that we were glad enough to get

under shelter at our journey's end. Here we found the apricot trees,

which were teeming with fruit when we passed, completely stripped

and bare, and it was with difficulty we got a few from the houses

for preserving purposes.

AUGUST 23. -- Made an early start, and arrived at Suspul after a

pleasant march, a cool breeze from the mountains fanning our faces

the entire way. Here we pitched upon a cool and shady camping-ground,

close to a rushing torrent, where we were soon immersed in ice-cold

water. While making a short cut back to breakfast up a precipitous

face of concrete stone, I very nearly finished my wanderings in Thibet

with an unpleasantly abrupt full stop. I had nearly reached the top,

which was higher than I had imagined, when the treacherous lumps

of stone to which I was clinging, came away in my hands, and, with

a tremendous crash, down I came in a perfect storm of dirt, dust,

and stones, very much to the fright and astonishment of F. and the

mate, who were quietly finishing their toilet below. A broken bone

in such a place as Egnemo would have been a serious misfortune, and

it was therefore a matter of considerable satisfaction to find that,

although half-stunned and doing but little credit in appearance to

my recent washing, I had escaped with no worse injuries than torn

hands and what the doctors would call abrasions of the side and elbow.

AUGUST 24. -- Marched as usual, and reached Nurila about noon. From

the hilliness of the road and the laziness of the coolies combined,

they did not arrive until two P.M., so that we breakfasted at three

o'clock. To occupy the time, however, we took advantage of the

products of the country, and set to work upon a quantity of apples,

and having both thirst and hunger to assuage, I think we got through

about sixteen each before the kitchen appeared. While bathing we were

suddenly caught in a pouring shower of rain, which obliged us to snatch

up our only garments and beat a hasty and not to say dignified retreat

into a little den of a water-mill, where we crouched until it was

over. After the rain had stopped, a curious fall of stones and rocks

took place down the precipitous face of mountain which bounded the

opposite side of the Indus to our camp. The noise and the commotion

the stones made in their descent, reminded one exactly of volleys of

grape, and to any traveller unfortunate enough to get in their way,

the results would probably have been quite as disastrous.

Our larder having been low of late, we effected the purchase of a

sheep here, for which we paid two shillings.

AUGUST 25. -- Left for Lamieroo. The khitmutgar, having reported

himself sick to-day, we mounted him on a pony, the efficiency of that

branch of the service being of vital importance to the future prospects

of the expedition. Having discovered, by yesterday's experience, that

nature abhors a vacuum, and no apples being forthcoming at Lamieroo,

we halted for breakfast at the village of Kulchee.

Here I tried hard to purchase a curiously contrived praying-wheel

from an old Lama, but without success. My old acquaintance, the gopa,

however, brought me one for sale, but it was in such a dilapidated

state, and so highly valued as church property, that I let him keep

his shaky religious curiosity at his own price. Leaving Kulchee,

we crossed the Indus at a mud fort, and bid the roaring, dirty river

a final good-bye. Near this the bhistie and khitmutgar, journeying

together, lost the path, and found themselves well on the road to

Iscardo before discovering their mistake. The road to-day, like

all our return journeys, appeared twice the length it did on first

acquaintance. The hills, too, were very severe on the coolies, and

it was fortunate we halted for breakfast on the road.

At Lamieroo, we found a great change in the temperature; a strong cold

breeze blowing, and a general winteriness prevailing, which affected

our retainers considerably more than it did ourselves. The Q.M.G. in

particular, not having entirely recovered his health, and being low in

the article of tobacco, still believed himself to be dying, and was

most unusually low-spirited and down in the mouth. As it threatened

rain, we pitched our camp close to an old serai, in order to allow

our servants to ensconce themselves under a roof, and to derive the

full benefit of their wood fire, which they lost no time in kindling.

AUGUST 26. -- Exactly a mouth to-day since leaving Sirinugger. The