Sundar Mundariyya
            
              Muhammad Hassan Miraj 
              For whom the bell tolls
             
              The 16th day of April  1853 is special in the Indian history. The day was a public holiday. At 3:30  pm, as the 21 guns roared together, the first train carrying Lady Falkland,  wife of Governor of Bombay, along with 400 special invitees, steamed off from  Bombay to Thane.
  Ever since the engine rolled off the tracks, there have been new  dimensions to the distances, relations and emotions. Abaseen Express, Khyber  Mail and Calcutta Mail were not just the names of the trains but the  experiences of hearts and souls. Now that we live in the days of burnt and non  functional trains, I still have a few pleasant memories associated with train  travels. These memoirs are the dialogues I had with myself while  sitting by the windows or standing at the door as the train moved on. In the  era of Cloud and Wi-fi communications, I hope you will like them.            
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 -Illustration by  Mahjabeen Mankani/Dawn.com
-Illustration by  Mahjabeen Mankani/Dawn.com
The train whistles away from Choohar Kahna and halts at  Safdarabad. From the jungles of Sheikhupura to the reservations of Lyallpur,  the whole place was once called Sandal Bar, one of the five bars of Punjab. Bar  is the local name for the area that lies in between the rivers. Free spirited  and generous, the inhabitants of this area bear the signature of this environ.  Their temperaments remind one of wild plants, and their moods identify with the  flowing rivers. When invaders made it a routine to loot and plunder Punjab,  Baris were the first to resist. From the Moghuls to the British, they lived up  to the tradition of resistance. It was the free spirit of these people that  irked the imperialists to either belittle them as Jaangli or, in a subtle manner, eliminate them  from history.
As a result of this,  the locals resorted to a unique method of preserving their history. To avoid  this abduction, they converted their history into rhymes and poems. Instead of  writing them in words and publishing them in books, they encrypted these  stories into lullabies to keep them safe in their hearts. These songs were  synchronised with the rhythm of windmills, the spinning wheels of cycles and  the beats of a heart. This practice saw the chivalry of forefathers travel from  generation to generation, and saved of heroes from dishonest historians. When  the train stopped, I got down looking for the market of Dhaba’n Singh, which  was originally Safdarabad and found this song:
  
    Sunder munderiyay
  Tera kon vechara
  Dullah Bhatti wala
  Dullay dee dhee viyahee
  Ser shakkar payee 
This was a 
lohri, a song for many occasions. Some sang it on  weddings, others celebrated the birth of a precious son and for many others it  marked the change of seasons. There was a time when all the boys gathered in  front of a house and sang loudly:
Dabba bharya leeran daa
Ayeho ghar ameera’n daa 
The box is full of rags,
This house belongs to a rich man
When the door opened, they sang the 
lohri and demanded 
shagun. The returns were sugar, chickpeas or at  times, 
gurr. Nobody returned from  the 
lohri party without a  gift for it was considered a bad omen. But that was different; those were the  days when festivities were neither Muslim nor Hindu and people departed from  each other by a simple 
rab rakha.  Those who greeted with a 
Khuda Hafiz were not called back and corrected with  an 
Allah Hafiz,  an Arabian influence.
Lohris was declared un-Islamic in the early  50’s and no efforts today, can locate it in Punjab. A few years ago, the song  once again reverberated in Pakistan through an Indian flick. Taken by its  melody, Punjabis had difficulty identifying with the song and the pangs while  disassociating from it. The tune sounded familiar and the words touched the  heart but somewhere someone frowned so the head shook a strong “No”. Two men,  aged and wrinkled, on both sides of Ravi, wept bitterly; Charhda Punjab and  Lehnda Punjab
The character of Rai  Abdullah or Dullah Bhatti is another feature of the Bar. His mention, in the  lohri, has a history. Dullah rescued a poor girl from the wrath of a landlord,  raised her and married her off as his own daughter. The grandson of Sandal  Bhatti, who had Sandal Bar named after him and the son of Farid Bhatti, Dullah  was a scion of the Chandravanshi Rajput’s Bhatti clan, who lived in Punjab some  four centuries ago. When Akbar ascended the throne, his first priority was  eliminating the rebellions. Sandal and Farid Bhatti, a father-son duo that  headed the Bhatti clan, offered stiff resistance to the Empire. He ordered the  arrest of both and subsequently hanged them.
On growing up, Ladhi,  the mother, told Dullah the fate of his father and grandfather. Angry young  Dullah vowed to avenge and ruin the Moghuls. He refused to acknowledge the writ  of the Moghul Empire and stopped paying any levy. Meanwhile, he raised an army  and started attacking Royal Convoys, Pro-Moghul landlords and men of authority.  On the other hand, the love of Anarkali had distanced Saleem from his father,  so he also encouraged Dullah’s activities and formed an alliance. Another  tradition reveals that at the time of his birth, Saleem was undernourished and  Ladhi nursed the young prince for some time. Regardless of reason, the alliance  soon forced the Moghuls to shift the capital to Lahore.
Irritated by the daily  ambushes, Akbar dispatched two of his able generals; Meerza Ala-ud-din and  Meerza Zia-ud-din with the command of over 12000 troops. The army reached  Dullah’s village but could not find him. Due to his Robin Hood personality,  Dullah was popular amongst masses. Akbar had ordered the generals to bring  Dullah, dead or alive and failing that, bring the women of his house to the  court. In obedience of the orders, the army secured the women and started  marching towards Lahore.
When word reached  Dullah, he charged back. The two sides fought with courage but the Moghul army  was soon on the run. The generals begged Ladhi for their life, who then ordered  Dullah to forgive them. After the shameful defeat, the Moghuls invited him for  talks and deceitfully arrested him. Upholding tradition, he was kept for a  while at the Shahi Qila and was hanged in front of Kotwali, a police station  now marks the place. His funeral was administered by the Sufi poet, Shah  Hussain. The story of this son of the soil spans from the graveyard of Miani  Saheb to Dullewala in Bhakkar District. Moghuls had thought that burying Dullah  would suppress the rebel soul but the Chughtais knew little of the Punjabi  tradition. Written on the lines of Mirza Saheban, the mothers of Punjab sang  the epic of Dullah to their children for quite few centuries.
With partition, everything  changed … forever. Now the famous men from the lineage of Dullah Bhatti have  stopped riding horses and have taken up trade. They are famous for saving  democracy rather than honor, and as far as lullabies are concerned, the  children no longer sleep with their parents, they prefer their privacy.