Abode of Love

Blog doodhpatti, Friday October 27, 2006

If you have seen one town in Pakistan, you have seen them all - except Malka Hans. A historic little town - serene, tranquil, pollution free - was once an abode of Waris Shah, who stayed here and composed famous romance tale Heer Ranjha.

Legend has it that Malik Muhammad (alia Malka), a member of Hans tribe founded the town some 700 years ago. Hans became powerful when the Mughal Emperor Alamgir conferred a vast land around Malka Hans on Sheikh Qutab Hans. In 1764, Muhammad Azam, who was the descendants of Qutab Hans, became head of the clan and claimed independence. Ran Singh Nakka later treacherously took Muhammad Azam prisoner.

A great Punjabi poet, Waris Shah was born in Jandiala Sher Khan in 1719. After completing his education in Kasur, he shifted his residence to Malka Hans. Here, he resided in a small hujra (living room) adjacent to the historic mosque that was constructed by Hans in 1340. Waris Shah composed the illustrious Punjabi folk romance sitting in this hujra. The underground hujra where the poet lived is still there, though devoid of any furniture or things that could be related to Waris Shah to bring back the memory of the poet. The only sign showing that Waris Shah had been living here is a crudely written plaque with sketchy details about the poet.

The classic work of Waris Shah - Shakespeare of Punjabi language - echoes in the countryside as people sing about it with joy. One can find a number of folk vocalists singing Heer Waris Shah in other parts of the subcontinent where Punjabi language is used. The poetry of Waris Shah is written in easy language and the couplets are used as idioms and phrases in day to day life. The ancient mosque, now known as Mosque Waris Shah, with three green coloured domes and a hujra are venerated by literary figures, curiously conscious and devoted faithful.

This reminds me of Shakespeare's home in Stratford that has been carefully preserved as a national monument. The home of the playwright and poet draws thousands of tourists each year. Stratford, in Shakespeare's days, was a small village with the population of 2,000. Today, it is a city of 20,000, buzzing with tourists from all over the world.

Exploring this sleepy little agricultural town, you can also see the dilapidated relics of Parnami temple that used to be one of the central ashram of Parnami faction of Hindus. Mahant Darbara Singh had constructed a palace like five-story majestic building of the temple over 200 years ago. The dust of ages has settled in deep layers on the temple.

"Large number of Hindus had been visiting here before partition and there used to be a large annual mela in the month of Chetar," informed a villager who is using this place as a house. "I am paying a rent to the Auqaf for living in this khandar (ruin)," he complained a little wistfully.


This grand monument of the past, with solid masonry and ornate designs wrought by artisans and artists centuries ago, was one of the finest specimens of Hindu architecture. Termite is eating the wood but exquisite quality of woodwork on windows, doors and murals on the battered walls can still be seen. The red bricks excavated from this monument have been used in houses in the town. The Auqaf does not appear to have any idea about what to do with these splendid remains of the Hindu architectural legacy, except perhaps recovering the rent from the tenants.

On the way back from Malka Hans, Hussain Abdulla, Alam Sher and I stopped at roadside Afghani eating joint called Afghani Baba Hotel near Yousaf Walla. The specialty of the place is a mutton dish called Rosh - lamb cooked in lamb fat and no condiments at all. Long trucks plying between Karachi-Peshawar were standing and the staffs were having meals in large plates while sitting on floor mates. We were offered cots in one corner and served the best food. There is no Afghani Baba there and young boys working there explained the recipe as well as how this joint started and came to become famous. That is another interesting story.

Update: Here is an abridged version of Heer Rangha for those who are interested in the Love Lore or Punjabi Literature.